Category: DINING/ENTERTAINMENT

Après-ski adventures and after-dark fun

By Ellen Miller-Goins

When the lifts shut down and the snowy peaks fade into starlight, Northern New Mexico wakes up in a different way. From karaoke and comedy to cocktails and concerts, winter evenings in Taos and the surrounding villages keep the energy going.

Karaoke, trivia and comedy

Karaoke fans will feel right at home here. The Alley Cantina, just off Taos Plaza, is one of the town’s oldest buildings and liveliest bars. On Thursdays, “The Wizard” hosts karaoke, adding to the Alley’s weekly lineup of live music, shuffleboard, and pool. For a different scene, DALEEE at KTAOS Solar Center in El Prado serves up karaoke on Tuesdays, paired with margarita specials in a laid-back, ski-town atmosphere. And every Friday night, Mirabal Café & Millicent’s Lounge gives visitors another chance to sing the classics.

Trivia lovers can match wits over drinks at the Rolling Still Lounge on Wednesdays. The locally distilled cocktails are as creative as the quiz categories, so grab a team and arrive early to snag a seat. DALEEE also keeps Wednesdays lively with its own free trivia contests, making midweek nights in Taos anything but quiet.

If laughter is your goal, check out TaosComedy, the nonprofit comedy collective that’s been growing since 2022. Hosted by veteran comic Chad Riden, the group runs “Burger Stand-Up Comedy Open Mic” every Wednesday at The Burger Stand @ Taos Ale House. Anyone can sign up to try their original jokes on stage, and touring headliners — often women, and Native comedians — bring professional punchlines to close out the shows. It’s a welcome way to balance the serenity of the slopes with some belly laughs.

Music is the heart of the scene

Music is the heartbeat of nightlife here, and no two venues are alike. The Alley Cantina offers live bands every night, with a strong emphasis on blues and rock that keeps the dance floor full. Opposite the Plaza light, the Historic Taos Inn’s Adobe Bar lives up to its nickname “the living room of Taos,” thanks to its cozy kiva fireplaces, craft cocktails, and nightly performances. Just north of town, DALEEE at KTAOS Solar Center pairs mountain views with a diverse concert calendar. Locals and visitors alike gather for everything from bluegrass to funk, often before heading back into the snow. Wine lovers gravitate to Barra Vino or Parcht, with their well-curated pour lists. Thursday open mic nights at Barra Vino showcase both seasoned musicians and first-time performers.

For those who want room to move, the Sagebrush Inn has long been known as Taos’ biggest dance floor. This historic inn-turned-music hub hosts live music seven nights a week — from country to rock to Taos originals — in a lively cantina atmosphere where locals and travelers mix, eat, drink, and dance.

Tomorrow & Tomorrow (TnT), a sourdough café by day, now opens late Thursday-Saturday nights offering a dinner menu, natural wine, craft ciders and Belgian beers, and regular performances by DJs and singer-songwriters from the local scene and beyond. Meanwhile, Mary’s Place at Taos Lifestyle has quickly proven it’s more than just a stage — it’s a community gathering spot with a stellar sound system, a donation-based ticket model, and a vibe that feels welcoming whether you’re there for a national act or a local favorite. Grammy winners like Robert Mirabal have already graced its stage, and the mix of sit-down seating, dance floor, and even craft beer pop-ups makes it a must-stop for music lovers.

Taos Ski Valley & Arroyo Seco

Après-ski has its own flavor in the higher elevations. At The Lounge by Rolling Still Distillery in Taos Ski Valley, you can sip small-batch cocktails in a stylish space where locals mix with visitors. Even trivia nights and small acoustic sets make this a popular spot for post-ski relaxation.

Nearby, the Taos Ale House in Alpine Village serves hearty pub food—burgers, pizza, wings — along with craft beer and cocktails. Its deck, perched along the Hondo River, is perfect for sunny afternoons, while the lively bar scene keeps things buzzing after dark.

Just down the road, Arroyo Seco’s intimate cafés and bars cater to those looking for a quieter evening. This artsy village offers small-scale performances and gatherings that often come together by word-of-mouth. For travelers who like a little serendipity, Seco nights can be magical.

Red River

Red River has long been tied to music. Its most celebrated winter event is the Red River Songwriters’ Festival (Jan. 22-24, 2026), staged at Texas Red’s Lost Love Saloon and the Motherlode Saloon. Outside the festival, the Motherlode remains a late-night favorite with live music and karaoke nights. texasredssteakhouse.com

The Bull O’ the Woods Saloon, a rustic mainstay since 1939, is one of Red River’s most iconic watering holes. With its massive stone fireplace, pool tables, and sprawling bar, it’s a favorite après-ski stop for both locals and visitors. Live music fills the space on holidays and weekends, and the atmosphere is equal parts rowdy and welcoming. bullothewoods.com

For a more modern take, the Red River Brewing Company offers craft beers brewed on-site, from crisp lagers to robust stouts. The spacious taproom and patio (enclosed and heated in winter) provide a lively setting for families and groups to gather after skiing. Just down Main Street, the Red River Distillery pours locally crafted spirits.

For slope-side fun, the Lift House Bar & Grill is ideally located at the base of the Triple Chair. On Saturday evenings, it doubles as the best vantage point for the ski area’s weekly torchlight parade and rail jam.

Wine lovers have two excellent options as well. Sheehan Winery, with its New Mexico–grown varietals, offers a warm indoor tasting room experience ideal for après-ski. And Noisy Water Winery, known for its approachable blends and playful labels, is equally inviting for groups who want to sample something new while exploring Main Street.

Angel Fire

At Angel Fire Resort, après-ski begins at the Village Haus, where live music, dancing, and big-screen sports make it the place to be after a day on the slopes. For something more refined, En Fuego offers martinis and fine wines in a stylish mountain setting, often with singer-songwriters providing a relaxed soundtrack.

New to the scene, Elevated Pour has quickly become Angel Fire’s chic gathering place. Housed in a handsome log building alongside the Angel Fire Visitor Center, this wine and cocktail bar offers a carefully curated menu of wines, cocktails, and small plates.

Local favorite Zeb’s Restaurant and Bar keeps the lights on late, serving hearty food and cold drinks until 2 a.m. on weekends. And on night-ski evenings, the Sunset Grille provides dinner and drinks around fire pits, with sweeping views of the illuminated Exhibition run.

Eagle Nest

Though smaller than its neighbors, Eagle Nest offers cozy places to unwind after a day in the mountains. The Laguna Vista Saloon, inside a historic lodge dating back to the 1890s, is a favorite stop for locals and visitors. With its wood-paneled bar, pool tables, and weekend live music, it captures the authentic Old West vibe of this lakeside village.

Another must-visit is The Lucky Shoe Bar & Grille. This lively spot blends a casual, down-to-earth atmosphere with a menu of pub eats, local beers, and occasional live music or open mic nights. It’s a perfect place to duck in after a drive around the valley or to close out your evening with local flavor.

Eagle Nest may be quieter than Taos or Red River, but its saloons and small-town hospitality make it a worthy stop on the Enchanted Circle nightlife circuit.

Old Martinez Hall is reborn

By Olivia Lewis

For generations, Taoseños two-stepped across the dance floor at Old Martinez Hall, the legendary venue for live bands, quinceañeras and family celebrations. After years of changing hands and sitting empty since 2020, the Ranchos de Taos landmark has re-opened.

Jim Long, founder and CEO of Heritage Hotels & Resorts, purchased the property last summer. Long and his wife Rebecca are 12th-generation New Mexicans whose roots trace to the first Spanish settlers of 1598. A former board chair of the Spanish Colonial Arts Society, Long studied architecture at UNM before founding Heritage Hotels & Resorts in 2005 to showcase New Mexico’s history and culture. The company now operates nine hotels statewide, including El Monte Sagrado and Palacio de Marquesa in Taos.

“We felt this was a very important property that should be preserved — and used to enhance the cultural aspects of New Mexico, which we intend to do,” Long says.

The Pueblo Revival structure, built in the early 1900s across from the iconic San Francisco de Asís Church, spans more than 15,000 square feet. The dance hall alone accommodates 600 people and has drawn not just locals but also actors and filmmakers like Dennis Hopper, Jack Nicholson and Peter Fonda.

“It’s celebrated many of the community’s historical events — weddings, quinceañeras and special occasions — for hundreds of years,” Long says. “People who’ve lived here a long time have very special memories of the place.”

When German architect and cosmetics entrepreneur Martina Gebhardt purchased the building in 2010, she discovered leaking roofs and crumbling vigas. Undeterred, she poured more than $2 million into restoring the adobe, preserving as much original material as possible. Her efforts paid off: the hall reopened in 2012 as Old Martina’s Hall and quickly regained its place as a cultural hub.

Now, thanks to her meticulous renovations, very little work is needed. Long praises her commitment: “It’s rare to inherit a historic property that’s ready to move in. The community should tip their hat to Martina for preserving that asset. She put her heart and soul into it.”

Music and Tradition

Old Martinez Hall will once again echo with music. Grammy-winning Taos Pueblo musician Robert Mirabal will coordinate live performances, from Friday and Saturday night concerts to free Sunday afternoon events featuring traditional New Mexican village music — a blend of polka and ranchera once played at weddings and fiestas across the region.

“That sound is something we’re rapidly losing in New Mexico,” Long says. “We want to preserve it.” Expect performances from groups like Lone Piñon, along with flamenco shows by artists such as La Emi.

The hall’s restaurant will operate under the leadership of Cristina Martinez, El Monte Sagrado’s longtime executive chef. Martinez, a Le Cordon Bleu graduate with 25 years of professional experience, will manage operations as a partner.

Her vision is to keep the venue accessible and welcoming. “I’m going to be doing counter service, and it’s going to have a really fun vibe,” she says. “We can celebrate culture with New Mexican-inspired food — cuisine that pairs perfectly with beer.”

Long hopes the revived hall will once again serve as a community gathering place. “There will be a lot of fun at Old Martinez,” he says. “It will be a fantastic location for music, food and family celebrations.”

Martinez agrees: “Culturally, it’s important to keep this beautiful, historic building alive. For it to be used in a meaningful way shows the community we really do care.”

For more information about Old Martinez Hall, visit oldmartinezhall.com.

Old Martinez Hall

4140 NM 68, Ranchos de Taos (across from San Francisco de Asís Church)

Hours to be determined

Cocktails, Brews & Wine Bars in Northern New Mexico

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Northern New Mexico’s high desert and alpine landscapes don’t just inspire artists — they also fuel a thriving craft beverage scene. From Taos to Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire to Red River, visitors can sip award-winning beers, inventive cocktails, historic spirits, and carefully curated wines. Here are a few standout stops to add to your tasting tour.

Rolling Still Lounge — Taos Ski Valley

Rolling Still brings its award-winning vodka to the mountains at its sleek Taos Ski Valley lounge. Signature cocktails are crafted with locally inspired infusions — think pecan, green chile, and lavender — served in a cozy alpine setting with ski-in convenience. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes, pairing elevated spirits with breathtaking high-elevation views. Rolling Still products are sold statewide and at rollingstill.com, but there’s nothing like sipping them at 9,000 feet.

Must Try: Lavender Honey Drop — made with Rolling Still’s own Lavender Vodka, lemon, simple syrup, and butterfly pea blossom tincture for color, finished with a lemon twist.

200 Thunderbird Rd., Unit 103B, Taos Ski Valley

575-613-0326

rollingstill.com

Taos Mesa Brewing Tap Room — Taos

Located in the heart of downtown, the Taos Mesa Brewing Tap Room pairs artisan cuisine with a rotating lineup of house brews. Guests can expect everything from crisp Kölsch and golden ales to hop-forward IPAs and rich stouts, each crafted with care and local character. The food menu centers on wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches, and fresh salads — hearty enough for a full meal yet perfect for sharing. With daily happy hour and a relaxed, welcoming vibe, it’s a go-to for both locals and visitors looking to experience the creative side of Taos’s brewing culture.

Must Try: Black Diamond Expert Stout — bold, rich, and a classic après-ski choice.

201 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos

575-758-1900

taosmesabrewing.com

Pärcht Bottleshop + Bites — Taos Plaza

Just below The Gorge Bar & Grill on Taos Plaza, Pärcht (stylized pärcht) is a warm, intimate wine-bar & bottleshop that opened in 2015. What makes it special is its devotion to simple, beautiful, hand-picked ingredients, thoughtfully curated cheese & charcuterie boards, rare but approachable wines, inventive craft beers, and organic/local/humanely sourced small bites. It’s perfect for lingering over conversation, sharing small plates, and exploring wines you might not try elsewhere.

Must try: Seasonal Bites & Bottles combo — choose a charcuterie board paired with wine from their bottleshop.

103 E Plaza, Taos

parcht.com

Corner Office — Taos

Just off the Plaza, Corner Office brings natural wines and inventive small plates to Taos. Owners Zakary Pelaccio and Ian Wolff are nationally recognized restaurateurs whose establishments have earned top awards. Expect playful yet refined pairings, like finocchiona (fennel sausage) with honey-fermented figs, or a frico pancake of aged gruyere and potatoes. Recognized by Wine Enthusiast as one of the top 50 wine bars in the U.S., Corner Office is both stylish and approachable — perfect for a glass before exploring Taos shops and galleries.

Must Try: Frico (cheese-and-potato pancake) paired with natural wine.

122 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (upstairs), Taos

cornerofficetaos.com

Barra Vino — Taos

Barra Vino is a cozy wine bar & bistro tucked into historic Ledoux Street, offering a warm, neighborhood vibe combined with a well-curated wine list, small-plates fare, and regular live music. The interior is intimate, with artful lighting and a friendly, casual service style. The food menu centers on small plates, boards, flatbreads, and shareable bites — ingredients are fresh, mostly local or organic, and the offerings rotate with the seasons. Barra Vino also hosts events like open-mic nights and traditional Irish music midweek.

Must Try: The Flatbread Special paired with wine from their by-the-glass selection (ask for something local or adventurous).

241 Ledoux St., Taos

575-240-8534

Elevated Pour — Angel Fire

This sleek new wine and cocktail bar opened in summer 2025 at Frontier Park. Its owners designed Elevated Pour as the kind of place they’d want to linger: modern mountain décor, warm hospitality, and a thoughtful menu of charcuterie, small plates, and rotating specials. The wine list, curated after tasting hundreds of bottles, leans global but includes New Mexico favorites like Gruet. Cocktails nod to the region — try the High Road Margarita or the top-selling Elevated Old Fashioned. Elevated Pour also doubles as a retail wine shop, making it easy to take your favorite bottle back to the cabin.

Must Try: Elevated Old Fashioned — a mountain-modern twist on a classic.

3365 Mountain View Blvd., Angel Fire

575-377-4535

elevatedpour.com

Red River Brewing Company & Distillery + Red River Distillery Tasting Room — Red River

Red River Brewing Company is the town’s first — and only — brewery, full-service restaurant and distillery. The Main Street location pours a wide range of beers — crisp blondes, hoppy IPAs, sours, porters, and even house-made root beer — alongside handcrafted spirits like Silver King vodka, Purkapile rum, and Mallette Bros. gin. Its sunny patio and mountain views make it a favorite for après-ski. The Red River Distillery Tasting Room offers a more intimate setting to explore their spirits. Together, the brewery and tasting room showcase the best of Red River’s fast-growing craft beverage culture.

Must Try: DON’T TXT UR EX – A house-invented cocktail made with their Silver King Vodka, strawberry syrup, lime juice, ginger beer, & garnished with a strawberry slice and mint leaf. Perfectly sweet and fruity.

Red River Brewing Company & Distillery

217 W. Main St., Red River

575-754-4422

Red River Distillery Tasting Room

619 E. Main St., Red River

575-754-5123

redriverbrewing.com

* Traveler’s Tip: At high elevation, alcohol hits harder. Drink slowly, hydrate often, and savor the unique flavors of Northern New Mexico.

Taos Winter Wine Festival 2026

By Ellen Miller-Goins

The 2026 Taos Winter Wine Festival, set for Feb. 5–8, promises four days of alpine indulgence, where fine food, world-class wines, and snowy adventure meet in the heart of Taos Ski Valley.

Founded in 1987, the festival was born from a simple idea: invite winemakers to ski, share their best bottles, and enjoy Taos’ high-altitude charm. Today, under the direction of Greg O’Byrne — also the executive director of the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta — it has matured into a sophisticated yet down-to-earth event that attracts more than two dozen acclaimed wineries and the region’s most celebrated chefs.

The festival unfolds in Taos and the Village of Taos Ski Valley with Reserve and Grand Tastings, chef-led luncheons, wine dinners, and seminars. Festivities begin Thursday with the Champagne & Caviar Reception, followed by the Reserve Tasting and Silent Auction, benefiting Taos High School’s “Great Chefs of Taos” program. Throughout the weekend, après-ski tastings, winemaker dinners, and educational seminars invite guests to savor vintages from storied labels such as Silver Oak, Ridge Vineyards, and Robert Sinskey.

Saturday’s Grand Tasting — the festival’s showpiece — brings together all 28 winery partners and Taos’ top restaurants for an evening of culinary collaboration at El Monte Sagrado. Each bite and pour tells a story of terroir, technique and Taos hospitality.

Smaller than its Santa Fe cousin but equally refined, the Taos Winter Wine Festival retains its intimate, boutique appeal. It’s a gathering where vintners mingle with guests on the slopes, chefs celebrate local flavors, and the spirit of Taos — creative, adventurous, and warmly communal — shines through every glass.

For tickets, schedule details, and participating restaurants, visit taoswinterwinefest.com.

More Tastes of Winter

Yuletide in Taos – Late November through December

This month-long holiday celebration transforms Taos into a twinkling wonderland of lights, luminarias, and local flavors. Enjoy holiday markets, bonfires on Bent Street, and festive menus at Taos restaurants and tasting rooms. taos.org/events/annual-event/yuletide-in-taos

Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Enchanted Forest, Red River

Sweeten your stride during this beloved Feb. 28, 2026, event at the Enchanted Forest Cross-Country Ski Area. Ski or snowshoe groomed trails to dessert stations where local restaurants and bakers serve up brownies, cookies and other treats. enchantedforestxc.com

North side location reopens following extensive renovations

By Olivia Lewis

After closing a year ago for renovations, the original Mantes Chow Cart — beloved for its signature burritos piled high with chiles — reopened for business across from the Taos County Courthouse Complex.

For Mante Chacon Jr., who co-owns the restaurant with his family, reopening Mantes Chow Cart is about carrying on a family tradition started by his father, the late Mante Chacon Sr.

“My motivation is to keep my dad’s legacy alive,” Chacon says. “He built so many relationships and was so important to the community.”

The Chacon family owns two Chow Cart locations on the north and south ends of town. The reopened restaurant is just north of Albright Street on Paseo del Pueblo Sur. Chacon says they closed the building because their parking lot became too congested after they lost parking space to the years-long NM 68–U.S. 64 road construction project.

In the interim, they ran a food cart similar to the bread delivery van Mante Chacon Sr. converted into a food cart in 1973. Mantes Chow Cart has been a staple of Taos, offering the likes of Susie burritos with a chile relleno and guacamole, stuffed sopapillas, cheeseburgers, chalupas and tamale pies. Over the years, the business grew into two restaurants, Comidas del Mante and the north-side Mantes Chow Cart.

When the north side Mantes Chow Cart opened, it added a drive thru and carhop service that operated through the 1990s. Comidas del Mante closed, and in 2006 the family opened La Cocina, which eventually became Mantes south-side location.

“Both of my parents really came from nothing, and I always told my dad that he built an empire,” Chacon Jr. says.

Chacon Sr. passed away due to COVID-19 complications at a Colorado Springs hospital in November 2020. Chacon Sr. father was an honorary firefighter who helped raise funds for local organizations like the Taos Volunteer Fire Department. Before his family brought him back to Taos after he died, Taos County Sheriff Steve Miera offered the family a police escort starting from the county line and into town. When the family arrived, Taos community members were waiting for them.

“There was a parade of cars,” Chacon says. “I think they estimated it to be around 400 cars, and people were just going in a line, and they followed the procession into town. My brother was waiting with my mom, and they joined the procession. My dad used to work at Hotel La Fonda, so we drove around the plaza. Then, we drove around here and ended up going all of the way to the other Mantes. We drove around the restaurant, and all along the way, people had signs. They were holding up signs and waving. It was such a touching thing, you know?”

He added, “We drove up to the other Mantes as well. It was during COVID, so you really couldn’t do anything. My mom sat in the car, and we parked. Everybody waited, went through the procession and gave their condolences through the drive thru.”

Today, Chacon Jr. runs the restaurant’s north-side location with his wife, Ernestine Chacon, and brother, Tim Chacon. His sister, Louella Conway and other brother, Tim Chacon, manage the south-side location near the Dollar General Store on Paseo del Pueblo Sur.

Inside the newly renovated restaurant hang framed photographs of the Chacon family, which a family friend named Manuel Aguilar offered to print and frame. In one, Chacon’s father smiles widely beside his wife, Gloria Chacon. In another, he picks and sorts through green hatch chiles from a farm out of Hatch, New Mexico.

Because many of their dishes are made from scratch, the family prepped red Chile pork tamales and other dishes prior to reopening. They also spent time familiarizing themselves and staff with the larger kitchen. Eleven of the staff had worked at Mantes prior to the renovation.

The north side Mantes Chow Cart is open Monday through Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. The menu will remain the same, with the possibility of some future additions.

“It’s not all of the things that he accumulated,” Chacon says, citing the empire he says his father built. “He did well for himself, especially for not having anything, but it’s more about the relationships and the things that he was able to accomplish through them.”

Mantes Chow Cart, located just north of Albright Street on Paseo del Pueblo Sur, is open Monday through Saturday, 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. For more information, visit manteschowcart.com or call 575-758-3632.

A destination like no other

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Northern New Mexico has become a premier destination for couples seeking a stunning wedding with a unique sense of place. Couples choose this area not only for its natural beauty, but for its deep cultural heritage and welcoming people.

“Many couples have a connection to this place, whether through family, past travels, or simply a love for the scenery,” says James Denio of Nest Events in Taos. “They want their wedding to reflect who they are, and Northern New Mexico allows them to showcase their love in a meaningful way.”

Some of the most beautiful weddings take place surrounded by nothing but towering aspen trees, wildflowers and snow-capped peaks. Wedding planners like Denio — and Karen Kelly of KWK Events in Red River — know not only where that perfect site is, they know if it’s possible.

“You need infrastructure,” Denio says. “If we’re going to do a wedding out on the mesa, if there’s 100 people going out there, you’re going to create a footprint. You want comforts, and you also want to showcase the land. You need vendors who can make something happen without taking away from the scenery by bringing that infrastructure in.”

Arranging for porta-potties definitely isn’t romantic. This is where a skilled wedding planner helps. Planning a wedding in a destination location requires experienced hands. Kelly says it helps to be prepared for every dream. “There’s people who book private homes and do everything at the home… and there’s two person elopements that come up here with their two best friends or their parents and get married on the bridge.”

Popular venues include several private homes with stunning vistas or riverside romance, but Kelly and Denio both also arrange weddings at popular venues like Taos Goji Eco Lodge Retreat, Hotel Luna Mystica, El Monte Sagrado, The Stakeout and the new Hotel Willa.

“It’s magnificent,” Kelly says. “They’re going to have beautiful areas for weddings.

Both Kelly and Denio say their job goes way beyond providing a service.

“If someone’s coming to me, it’s because we resonate with each other, and we have similar interests and morals and ideas about what this place actually means,” Denio says. “This place is an outward representation of what’s already happening within them.”

“It’s a fun business to be in because you’re making people happy,” Kelly says, noting how many past clients routinely bring new babies in to meet her. “You’re a part of their lives for the rest of their lives.”

Arrange your big day with a local wedding planner:

KWK Events

kwkevents.com

575-595-1971

Nest Events

nesteventsplanning.com

360-739-2398

Local ski areas offer mountain venues with in-house planning services:

Taos Ski Valley

skitaos.com/weddings

800-776-1111

Angel Fire Resort

angelfireresort.com/groups/weddings

800-633-7463

Sipapu

sipapu.ski/plan-your-trip/sipapu-weddings

575-587-2240

For more Taos-area locations, see taos.org/plan/weddings.

By Haven Lindsey

Late afternoon sunlight filters through the windowpanes in Eliza Gilkyson’s century-old home near Taos, New Mexico. Her husband, Robert “Bob” Jensen, greets me at the door as the warmth from the woodstove envelops me.

Gilkyson, the twice Grammy-nominated folksinger, enters the room wearing black, the dark fabric accentuating her cropped gray hair and bright, knowing eyes. There’s a quiet aura of peace and contentment around her. As we settle into her cozy living room — its walls adorned with colorful New Mexican tapestries and Buddhist thangkas — I become even more aware of her sense of ease. It feels like the quiet wisdom of a life led with intention.

I’m here to talk with Gilkyson about her new album, “Dark Ages.” At 74, she’s lived through other dark times and moments of rebellion. The album is filled with songs that guide today’s listeners through the political and environmental upheaval of our current reality in 2025. But it also reflects who Gilkyson is — deeply caring, with a profound love for the planet, humanity and the people in her life.

She’s a person with decades of lived experience and a seasoned musician who understands the difference between a powerful lyric and a powerful crescendo. Not everyone can see the shadows of political unrest and the climate crisis clearly without being consumed by the darkness. Gilkyson has found a balance, much like the way the moon casts its light on the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that rise above her home: It’s not a blinding flood of light, but a soft, steady presence.

There is simple acuity to Gilkyson, but that doesn’t mean life is simpler now.

“When I was a hippie, living gig to gig, two keys on my keychain — that was a simpler life,” she explains. “Having kids changed some of that, but even then, it was simpler than now. Back then, we had a feeling we had a future. But now, the life of our planet is threatened. We’ve come through dark times — worse than this — but we’ve never seen a climate crisis like this before.”

“Dark Ages” captures both Gilkyson’s self-described “apoplectic” mindset and the love and peace she embodies.

“My job is to make sure people continue to care,” she says of the songs on her new album. “I don’t want to live in a world where people don’t care.”

Music, she says, keeps her young.

“I full-on care, but you can’t live in a state of constant grief. We don’t know what’s coming, but I will continue to show up as a sentient being.” She describes being “gob smacked” that people voted for Project 2025. “The songs started coming out after the election, and one of them was a song I wrote more than 50 years ago. It has an innocence to it.”

The album begins, as she describes, “from a place of light,” with “Song to You” — soft, sincere and serene. The song feels like a hug. The album guides the listener through emotions that are ripe and raw now.

“Holy” is her favorite song on the album.

“There are people who rise up, who fight, and they are holy to me,” she reflects.

“Dark Ages” is, as she describes, “a scathing takedown of the current regime,” as we both note how common the word “regime” has become. “Dark Night of the Soul” is upbeat. “The song helps put things in perspective — we need to keep the lights on through the dark night of the soul.”

“Stranger” is a song about her husband of 20 years. “It’s a love song but not presumptuous. It’s personal, about the truth of not really knowing someone completely.” The album culminates with “Esta Salida del Sol,” a simple song, Gilkyson notes, “because I can only write Spanish in the present tense.”

Like the final song on an album, our conversation didn’t feel like it was ending, but rather something that lingers, waiting to be played again. The aroma of dinner on the stove, however, began to weave its way into the living room. Bob is the cook in the family, and his signature rice and greens dish, borrowed from his late friend Jim Koplin, was nearly ready. One taste, and I was an instant believer.

Later, I realized I never asked Gilkyson — who deeply feels the weight of our world — what success means to her. But as I thought about her work as a musician, her role as a wife and life partner, a mother and grandmother, I realized she had already answered the question. Gilkyson knows what success is. She’s living it.

FYI

Gilkyson joins Andrea Magee’s annual She Rises III Music Fest July 18–19 at Daleee at, 9 NM150, Taos. For more information, tickets and to join the email list, visit sherisesfest.com.

New Mexican cookbook gathers well-loved traditions

By Amy Boaz

“When cooking New Mexican food,” cautiously presents the compiler of these recipes, “not only do you want a particular dish, but often you want the dish as it was prepared by your mother, grandmother or uncle.” Art Pollard’s cookbook is rather a compendium of recipes gathered from beloved cookbooks over the ages and the long memories of abuelas. It serves as a fantastic historical document.

Having grown up “in part” in Los Alamos, now residing in Utah (he runs the Amano Artisan Chocolate company), Pollard’s earliest memories are savoring meals at Philomena’s in Los Alamos and Río Grande Café in Española. Hankering for his childhood comfort food, Pollard has culled from a dozen well-worn cookbooks over the last decades and grouped hundreds of recipes by kinds of vegetables, salads, appetizers, dips, breakfast offerings, soups and stews, main dishes (e.g., meat-heavy flautas), salsas, breads and desserts, among others.

The cookbook sources (listed in the bibliography at the back) move from the earliest, classic Alice Stevens’ “New Mexican Cookery” (New Mexico Land Office, 1916) to former Taos News Food Editor Fayne Lutz’s “Cooking Northern New Mexico Traditional Foods” (Taos News, 1989). Lutz also documented recipes from the Taos Plaza mainstay La Cocina de Taos (closed in 1991) in her “Recipes for Authentic Northern New Mexico Food from La Cocina de Taos” (1976). Other sources include books from legendary restaurant owners and chefs like Philomena Romero, J.C. Griggs (“A Family Affair,” 1968), Della Montoya, Dona Eloise Delgado de Stewart and Fabiola Cebeza de Baca Gilbert (“Historic Cookery,” 1931).

Let’s dig in. What do New Mexicans eat? “Enchiladas” cover a good 13 pages, divided into green chile and red sections, and offering wildly different sauce styles, with a preponderance of canned cream of mushroom or chicken soup (“Green Chile Recipe Fiesta,” New Mexico State Alumni Association, 1973). Chicken, beef, meatloaf, liver, tongue, goat, venison and veal — all à la New Mexican. How about spicy beef with nectarines (“Finalist”) from the “Great Southwest Cooking Classic” (1977)? Or nine different versions of arroz con pollo?

There are only a couple moles, one from the “Fiesta Fare” cookbook (1956), featuring raisins, pumpkin seeds and Mexican chocolate. However, under the heading “Sauces,” we move from chile caribe to BBQ sauces to chile sauces from everyone’s mother: I would try each one for variety. Also, the 33 ways to make chile rellenos! Numerous tamale tips and savory chile pies abound, and how about that dazzling Chilizza Pie (sautéed peppers and pepperoni, stewed tomatoes and Parmesan), created by Mrs. Barney Gardner of Albuquerque in “Great Southwest Cooking Classic”?

“Breads” cover a vast swath of yeasty delights, such as empanaditas, biscuits, buñuelos, fritters, sopaipillas and fry bread. For the last item, Mrs. Pappan, “cherished cook at the Albuquerque Indian School,” and of Pawnee heritage, offers her Navajo fried bread from “Fiesta Fare.” Everything corn dominates the bread section, naturally, boasting a dozen kinds of cornbread and tortillas (also blue corn). Varieties of biscochitos mark the “Desserts” section, crammed with other beloved concoctions that carry their luscious original Spanish names: almendrado (nutty almond), capirotada (bread pudding), sopa de borracho (you can guess), chongos (custards), jericalla (like a flan), natillas (boiled custard), panocha (sprouted wheat pudding) and marquesote (sponge cake), among many others. There’s even a “Pickled” chapter to keep us weeping.

Charmingly, if somewhat frustratingly, the recipes are not edited for consistency or currentness. For example, Chile Verde Tomas is still gunning for an addition of “2 tablespoons monosodium glutamate” (“Green Chile Recipe Fiesta,” 1973). But these recipes are precious throwbacks to Nana’s kitchen, and who can resist trying John Sena’s Balloon Rally Posole or even — gulp — Bowl of the Wife of Kit Carson?

Norther New Mexico is a treasure for lovers of live music

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Continue reading “So Much Music, So Little Time…”

Melt-in-your-mouth meats around The Enchanted Circle

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Folks in the so-called “barbecue belt” spanning from Texas through Kansas City and Memphis to the Carolinas – know there is one hard-fast rule: True barbecue is meat cooked low and slow over indi-rect name (no, it’s not grilled). This may be the only point on which regional aficionados agree, but whether you love the messy joy of ribs slathered in sauce or brisket that is both crisp and tender, we found a few places around the Enchanted Circle to savor.

Continue reading “Smokin’”

The Ranchos Plaza Grill is a Taos tradition of food and family

By David Lerner

Consistency, simplicity, flavor. According to Adam Medina, chef and owner of Ranchos Plaza Grill, these are the intangible qualities that set his restaurant apart from other New Mexican eateries. 

Continue reading “Ranchos Real”

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance takes the stage in September

By Haven Lindsey

Continue reading “Big Barn Dance”

Five new restaurants make the scene —here are the reviews 

By Will Hooper

The local restaurant scene has seen some changes recently, with a few new eateries we wanted to highlight here — including a Texas BBQ joint, an elegant prix fixe in Ojo, the next best thing to the old Taos Diner, a colorful coffee and breakfast bar and a Native-owned real-deal New Mexican restaurant. Bon Appetit!

Continue reading “New in Taos”

Robert Plant and Alison Krauss remind us of the power of music

By Lynne Robinson

It’s summer 1969, and I’m high up on some serious scaffolding, painting a Muscha-inspired art nouveau mural on the front of an old building in Cape Town named The Market.

Continue reading “Bridging Miles”

As decided by our readers 

For a small town, Taos has plenty to offer. And who would know better about its great food, drinks, entertainment, shopping and services than the folks who live here…

Continue reading “Best of Taos”

Corner Office at El Conejo offers wines, plates and plenty of simple sophistication

By Will Hooper & Photos By Mike Hawkins 

Less than a block south of Taos Plaza, and up a set of stairs, lies Taos’ Corner Office, a new restaurant serving up award-winning food and natural wine. With a patio for lounging, counter service and a cozy indoor vibe, Corner Office at El Conejo offers something new to locals and visitors alike.

Continue reading “Wine & Dine”

Soaking up all that Taos has to offer in a single day

By Stephanie Noll

Winter may be a drag elsewhere, but its abundant sunshine, mild temperatures, and usually just the right amount of snow make Taos a great place to be between fall and spring. Taoseños, and those who want to get lost in the town’s enchanting ways, know these words by poet and artist William Blake to be true: “In seed time learn, in harvest teach, in winter enjoy.” Whether you’re a local seeking an in-town adventure or an out-of-towner in search of the best Taos has to offer, it’s easy to live one of your best days ever in this magical high desert mountain town.

Continue reading “One turn around the sun”