Arroyo Seco

When you enter Arroyo Seco north of Taos along NM 150, the main road to Taos Ski Valley, you immediately feel the sense of community and creativity in the shops, boutiques, galleries and eateries that line the main street of this charming village.

Diners can duck into Sol Food Market and Café, Abe’s Cantina y Cocina, ACEQ, Saltos, and Taos Cow. Shoppers will find unique offerings at Old Bones Gallery for Clay and Textiles, Wilde.Ink, Santos y Mas, Logan Wannamaker Pottery, Rottenstone Pottery, Fine Art New Mexico, Arroyo Seco Mercantile, and Taos Wools

Be sure to check out La Santísima Trinidad Church, built prior to 1834. The historic church was given a place on the official State Register of Cultural Properties in 2009.

Seco Live offers special summer and fall events like a Fiber Arts Fest with Taos Wools (June 7–8), healing arts with Joy Yoga (June 28–29) and Seco Potter Fest (Aug. 30–Sept. 1) as well as ongoing smaller classes and events. Check @arroyosecolive on Instagram for up-to-date info.

secolive.org

Angel Fire

In summer, the Moreno Valley spreads out grassy green, verdant as Midwestern farmland — with the added bonus of scenic mountains on all sides. Here lies Angel Fire, a community that is both thriving and relaxed.

Photo by Michael Johnstone, The Sangre de Cristo Chronicle
Hot air balloons rise over Angel Fire during the village’s Summerfest and Balloon Rally on Saturday (June 27).

Today, visitors can golf, ride horseback, fish, zip line and mountain bike. The top-rated Angel Fire Bike Park offers more than 100 miles of downhill and cross-country trails for every level of bike rider. The trails tie into the National Forest trail network, including the popular South Boundary Trail setting out from the Elliot Barker trailhead.

Angel Fire’s restaurants, from fine dining to coffee shops, are all locally owned and operated and serve up some of the best Northern New Mexico has to offer.

Visit the weekly farmers market on Sundays in Frontier Park for down-to-earth foods and crafts. There’s a summer concert series in Frontier Park and Music from Angel Fire, the annual chamber music festival. The town hosts a hot air balloon festival on Father’s Day weekend and a flag march and ceremony at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial on Memorial Day.

angelfirenm.gov

Taos Ski Valley

Adventure-seekers can take NM 150 up the canyon along the Rio Hondo to its end, where the Village of Taos Ski Valley offers an ideal base for Rocky Mountain activities — all along the base of Wheeler Peak, the highest elevation in the state. At Taos Ski Valley, one can escape the heat and quite literally “get away from it all” or use the cool mountain community as a stepping-out place for the Enchanted Circle.

Dancers took to the Phoenix Stage during the second night of the High Mountain Hideout Festival on Friday (Sept. 5) in Taos Ski Valley.

Visitors can hike, bike, fish and camp among spectacular cool mountain forests. For something truly memorable, explore the landscape on the Via Ferrata, a climbingcourse featuring a metal wire bridge. In summer, the Eis Haus Ice Rink offers games and activities like bocce, cornhole and more.

Taos Ski Valley started as a timber and mining operation before Swiss-German ski pioneer Ernie Blake began to develop the area for skiing in the 1950s. Today, TSV offers visitors boutique shops, fine dining, a spa and wellness center, and so much more. Check taosskivalley.com for lists of offering in the valley and surrounding Arroyo Seco, El Prado and Taos.

skitaos.com

Questa

About 30 minutes north of Taos, the Village of Questa is the northern gateway to the Enchanted Circle. The town was host to a mineral mine for a century and now is known for its radical adoption of solar energy.

Artists and outdoorsmen have long been drawn to Questa, given its access to pristine alpine forests and the mighty Rio Grande. Adventurers can visit the Rinconada Loop Trail, Columbine Canyon, Cabresto Canyon and the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.

In the heart of Questa is the San Antonio de Padua Church, which was built soon after the village was established in 1842. The historic adobe structure was renovated in 2006 by volunteer artists and craftspeople.

Along with tasty restaurants and shops and a Sunday farmers market, Questa offers visitors a short walking tour of the town, featuring plaques with regional history and fun facts.

visitquesta.com

Eagle Nest

Along the Enchanted Circle in neighboring Colfax County is the laid-back mountain town of Eagle Nest. The tiny village-with a long history of gunslingers and gold mines is now a popular destination for outdoor fun and adventure. Visitors can stay in Eagle Nest and head around the Enchanted Circle for sightseeing, shopping, golfing and more.

In the summer, visitors can hike, camp, horseback ride, mountain bike, canoe, sail and fish. Eagle Nest Lake is a great spot for fishing year-round and is regularly stocked with trout and salmon. Check out guided trips for access to the best honey holes. Several outfitters also sell gear for adventurers visiting the Lower Eagle Nest Lake Trail and Cimarron Canyon State Park.

The main drag offers visitors gift shops, restaurants and Comanche Creek Brewery with its stunning deck views of the lake and Moreno Valley.

Eagle Nest comes alive in summer with events like the annual 4th of July Parade and Fireworks, High Country Arts & Crafts Festival, BalloonFest, and Fish Fest. See eaglenestchamber.com/events.

visiteaglenest.org

Taos Pueblo

The Red Willow people of Taos Pueblo have called the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains home for more than 1,000 years. It’s the oldest continually inhabited community in the U.S., a National Historic Landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When visiting Taos Pueblo, remember you are in a sacred and private space, not a tourist attraction. For detailed rules, see taospueblo.com/visiting-taos-pueblo.

Kassie John, Miss Indian World 2024, helps her niece Anna Venally get ready at the 2024 Taos Pueblo Pow Wow on Saturday (July 13). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

The main part of the Pueblo was built between 1,000 and 1,450 A.D. Its residents speak Tiwa, the language of their forefathers. They live much as their ancestors lived, though they have doors and windows while early residents entered by ladder and through the ceiling — a protection against invasion.

Mati Padilla Saiz, left, and Kahyree Allison laugh with each other before marching out in the Grand Entry at the 2024 Taos Pueblo Powwow on Saturday (July 13). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

A guided tour of Taos Pueblo is highly recommended. Tours touch on the highlights of the culture, history and people of the region and last 20–30 minutes.

Visitors to this historic place will find colorful shops offering Native-made, handcrafted works from jewelry to pottery to paintings, plus delicious foods at Dawn Butterfly Cafe and Tiwa Kitchen. All sales are tax-free.

taospueblo.com

Red River

Red River is a picturesque small town with a mile-long main street lined with shops, restaurants, motels, a brewery and more. The tiny hamlet at an elevation of 8,750 feet offers cool mountain air, bright blue skies, and plenty of access to the great outdoors.

Though the town began as a gold, silver and copper mining outpost, visitors today can score a different kind of treasure: epic outdoor adventure. Whatever your recreational fancy, this town provides. Explore miles of four-wheeling terrain, horseback riding, mountain biking, trail running or hiking. Camp in the high country, fish local lakes and streams, rent “surrey-style” bicycles, or head to Red River Ski & Summer Area for scenic chairlift rides, a seated zip line ride, summer tubing, a challenging aerial park with ropes courses and zip lines, mini golf, or disc golf at the summit.

Red River also hosts a dizzying number of summer events: Red River Car Show, Vino in the Valley, 4th of July Parade & Celebration, 8750′ BBQ & Music Festival, Aspencade Music & Arts Festival, and Oktoberfest.

redriver.org

Celebrating 85 Years

Red River Community House marks a milestone with memories, music, and family fun

The Red River Community House celebrates 85 years of tradition, togetherness, and joyful service with an afternoon birthday bash Thursday, July 31.

Founded in 1940 by five visionaries who dreamed of a space for fellowship, worship and recreation, the Community House has become the heart of summer in Red River. The original log-cabin style building — now listed on the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties — was crafted by volunteers and filled with hand-hewn pews, salvaged maple floors, and a stone fireplace built with native rock. It’s a living monument to generations who believed in the power of wholesome community fun.

The 85th birthday celebration will begin at noon with pulled pork sandwiches and all the trimmings, followed by an afternoon of music, dancing demonstrations, a slideshow of Community House history, and introductions of past and present board members. Guests are encouraged to RSVP by July 1 and share their stories or roles in the Community House’s past.

Summers full of fun

Today, the Community House offers an incredible lineup of free and low-cost summer activities that keep families coming back year after year.

Kids can hammer together boats for the much-loved Boat Building and River Race, while Friday jam sessions invite musicians of all skill levels to gather and play and evenings bring the community together for Movies in the Mountains, S’mores & Stories, dancing, and more.

Guided nature hikes, line dancing lessons, yoga and pilates, bingo nights, Vacation Bible School, and more fill the summer calendar. Whether it’s storytelling by the fire, square dancing, or annual Fourth of July games, the Community House remains a hub for connection and family fun.

The late Lottie Tweed, a longtime Red river resident once said, “The Community House has always been about more than just activities. It’s about creating a space where families make memories, where values are shared, and where generations come together.”

We love it here — you will, too

Welcome to our latest issue, one that captures the vibrant spirit of Taos — from the quiet grace of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the heartwarming bustle of Mantes Chow Cart. In these pages, you’ll find stories rooted in the land and lifted by art, music and memory.

We walk with llamas through alpine wilderness and learn from the wisdom of foragers searching for mushrooms beneath forest canopies. We visit the newly opened Aldo Leopold House, where conservation history breathes through timber and stone, and we share in the soulful reflections of Eliza Gilkyson as she sings us through today’s storms.

From stolen masterpieces finding their way home to the enduring light of painters Leffel and McGraw, Taos continues to inspire, surprise and stir us. With portraits that honor community and craftsmanship, and a fresh chapter in Taos hospitality at Hotel Willa, this issue is our love letter to the high desert and all of those who shape its story.

Thank you for being part of this adventure.

Ellen Miller-Goins

Magazine Editor

‘Taos Portraits II: Photos by Paul O’Connor’

60 lives, 1 town

By Ekin Balcıoğlu

“It took a complete three days to recognize this and make the move which has lasted 35 years to date … Taos hit me like a ton of bricks: I knew I was home,” Paul O’Connor writes in the introduction to “Taos Portraits II: Photos by Paul O’Connor.”

This sense of belonging — immediate yet enduring — provides the foundation for a book that delves into the lives of the people who make up this singular town. Edited by Lynne Robinson and designed by Kelly Pasholk, “Taos Portraits II” presents 60 portraits, each accompanied by essays that illuminate the personal, cultural and artistic forces shaping Taos.

“Then there are the people. First and foremost, the Indigenous Tiwa people of the Taos Pueblo. Their presence, generosity, and history are the underpinnings that hold everything together,” O’Connor continues. These words underscore the centrality of the Tiwa community to the identity of Taos, where their traditions and connection to the land have shaped the town’s rhythm and spirit. O’Connor acknowledges this with a deep respect born of decades of observation and participation.

The town itself has also been shaped by those who came and never left. “Waves of people from various periods of time, coming and going and leaving behind a certain number who never leave,” he writes. It is these individuals — artists, builders, thinkers — who have captured O’Connor’s attention, those who stayed and became part of the fabric of Taos, contributing their creativity and lives to its enduring complexity.

The art of quiet exchange

In her foreword to “Taos Portraits II,” Jina Brenneman reflects on the deeply human challenge of portraiture. “A great portrait is not only a collaboration but also a negotiation between the photographer and the sitter,” she writes. “Perhaps that push and pull is what makes taking a photographic portrait so complicated and also one of the most difficult undertakings in art.”

Brenneman’s words capture the spirit of Paul O’Connor’s black-and-white images, which unfold as intimate exchanges. His photographs have a quiet gravity to them, inviting the viewer to linger, not just on the faces but on the invisible relationships behind each frame.

The book itself mirrors this intimacy. Large in format and weighty in presence, it feels deliberate, designed to demand your attention. The portraits, rendered in black and white, strip away distractions, bringing every detail — the lines of a face, the texture of clothing, the light in a subject’s eyes — into stark relief. It’s not just a book to flip through but one to sit with, to return to, as the stories unfold across its pages. The essays that accompany the images, written by friends, family members or the subjects themselves, deepen the sense of closeness. It is a book that feels both monumental and personal, a rare balance that makes it as much an artifact as an experience.

“Today, portraiture is more important than ever,” Brenneman observes. “It creates a life-affirming, human connection that is essential, in a world becoming less and less sensitive to the human condition.”

This is the quiet power of “Taos Portraits II.” The book isn’t about grand statements but about the small, profound moments of connection between people and the places they call home. Through O’Connor’s lens, we see artists, chefs, builders and weavers not as abstractions but as individuals bound by their creativity, perseverance and deep ties to the community.

O’Connor’s photographs remind us of the richness in every face, every gesture.

“Paul reminds us of the depth of the humanity, culture, care, and love that is the nature of the diverse arts community in Taos,” Brenneman writes.

The portraits are more than static records — they are openings, moments of seeing that reveal not just the subject but the dynamic, interconnected web of life in Taos. The book’s scale, its careful pacing and its refusal to rush or overwhelm embody this ethos. It’s an object that asks to be engaged with deeply — echoing the exchanges it captures.

Stories from the community

The essays in “Taos Portraits II” provide intimate narrativesof the individuals who make up the artistic and cultural heart of Taos. Written by collaborators, friends and family, these reflections highlight the resilience, creativity and deep sense of purpose that define their lives.

Editor Lynne Robinson, who is also editor of Taos News’ Tempo magazine,ensured these pieces retained the authentic voices of their writers, many of whom were not professional authors.

“They were not bound to rote academia in regard to copy edits,” Robinson notes, emphasizing the importance of preserving the individuality and rawness of each perspective. This commitment allows the essays to mirror the diversity and authenticity of the Taos community.

Johnny Ortiz, a chef and forager, lives and works in harmony with the land, blending tradition with innovation. Andrea Rosen describes him as someone whose strength is matched only by his kindness.

“As sweet as Johnny is, he is tough! I could never be strong enough to tie a dead chicken around my dog’s neck for two days,” she writes, illustrating Ortiz’s unflinching respect for the cycles of life. Whether raising Navajo-Churro sheep, foraging wild mushrooms or cooking over open flames, Ortiz’s work is a reflection of his commitment to renewal and connection, where sustenance becomes art.

Artist and artist’s model Lyle Wright approaches his work with a profound connection to his Pueblo heritage and a keen sense of his role within it.

“I ask Lyle what he thinks about when he’s posing,” Kelly Pasholk writes. “He tells me he thinks about the future, about the legacy his generation will leave, about the generations before.” As a silversmith, Wright draws inspiration from ceremonial life and the teachings of elders, creating art that honors the depth of his cultural roots. His work bridges the historical and the contemporary, balancing the preservation of tradition with the reinvention of identity, carving out a space that is both deeply personal and universally resonant.

For Patricia Michaels, a fashion designer and artist, creation is an act of cultural preservation and forward thinking, her work rooted in both tradition and innovation.

Her daughter, Margeaux Abeyta, reflects on her mother’s approach: “Fashion is forever forward thinking, and now more than ever the roles are changing.” Michaels’ designs draw inspiration from her Pueblo heritage, translating the textures and patterns of her culture into a contemporary framework. “It is a life of balance, to preserve one’s past while progressing within a larger world of relevance,” Abeyta writes, emphasizing her mother’s ability to weave sustainability and storytelling into her work, ensuring tradition evolves while its origins are never forgotten.

J. Matthew Thomas, as Erin Elder writes, is an artist, architect, curator and the founder of The Paseo Project and the PASEO, a festival that transforms Taos into a hub of interactive art and community engagement. He also co-founded Pecha Kucha in Taos, creating a platform for local artists and thinkers to share ideas and stories. Alongside his community-building work, Thomas’s artistic practice draws from his upbringing and family traditions.

“I’m working with a pile of dress patterns from my mom,” he explains, describing his use of waxed, folded and sewn-over paper. “I think of this as queering the tools of my ancestors.” From quilted 2-D artworks to performances with inflatable cinder blocks, Thomas’ work merges the practical and conceptual, fostering spaces where creativity and community intersect.

A living portrait

“Taos Portraits II” is a celebration of the people who define Taos. Through O’Connor’s lens and the deeply personal essays, the book reveals a community bound by tradition, creativity, and resilience. The Tiwa people, whose connection to the land is woven into the town’s identity, the artists who honor heritage while forging their own paths, and the individuals who choose to stay and contribute — all are part of this living portrait.

The black-and-white images are timeless yet immediate, capturing quiet moments of humanity and connection. The essays enrich these portraits, reminding us that every face carries a story — of perseverance, history and belonging. This is not just a book to look at but one to experience, asking us to pause and truly see the people who shape this extraordinary place. Through these portraits and stories, Taos emerges not just as a place but as a shared, living expression of art and humanity.

In a world often focused on the fleeting, “Taos Portraits II” lingers, offering a powerful reminder of the beauty and strength found in community. It is a reflection of what it means to belong — to a land, to a culture and to each other.

taosportraits.com

The intelligence of painting: David A. Leffel and Sherrie McGraw

By Ekin Balcıoğlu

To encounter a painting by David A. Leffel or Sherrie McGraw is to be drawn into a stillness so precise it feels charged. Light blooms in shadow. Edges soften into air. Figures and objects emerge gradually, as if shaped by the light itself. The longer one looks, the more the structure of the painting comes into focus, not through sharp detail, but through balance, rhythm and intention. There is no decoration, no distraction. Every element serves the whole. The result is an image that holds the viewer fully, quietly and without hesitation.

Leffel has said he seeks to understand the process of painting the way a theoretical physicist seeks to understand the universe. What looks like a figure or a bowl of lemons is, in his terms, “quarks and electrons, waves and particles.” Step too close and the illusion dissolves into gesture. Step back and solidity returns, not as fact but as phenomenon. He’s painting, in his words, not people or fruit, but motion.

Leffel himself calls this process of trying to comprehend nature through painting “intelligence.” It is not a metaphor. It is his philosophy.

mcgraw 2017-07-26 multi, 7/26/17, 4:25 PM, 8C, 9000×12000 (0+0), 150%, Repro 2.2 v2, 1/30 s, R62.3, G55.5, B75.6

Born in Brooklyn in 1931, Leffel spent 11 years of his childhood confined to hospitals with a bone disease. He used that time to draw — not idly, but with intensity. It shaped everything that followed. He later studied at Parsons and Fordham, then at the Art Students League of New York with Frank Mason, where he would return to teach for 25 years. In Studio 7, under the cool north light once used by Edwin Dickinson and Frank Vincent DuMond, Leffel resurrected an endangered lineage of painting.

“David has single-handedly brought the knowledge of the old masters to the forefront of the art world today,” says his partner, painter Sherrie McGraw. “Because he studied Rembrandt, and understood him.” Indeed, Leffel is not only recognized by his peers as a painters’ painter; he is considered by many to be no less than the artistic reincarnation of Rembrandt.

leffel buffalo skull, 2/27/23, 12:57 PM, 8C, 6730×8250 (1007+2537), 150%, Repro 2.2 v2, 1/30 s, R91.9, G80.9, B102.2

But where Rembrandt’s time teemed with guilds and apprenticeships, Leffel found himself painting in a world increasingly uninterested in technique or tradition. That didn’t deter him.

“The more you invest in anything, the more you get out of it,” he says. “It takes tremendous energy and commitment.” He pursued painting not just as craft, but as a way of perceiving. “Painting is like an interlocking set of relationships: color, edges, values, thick and thin, etc. Life is the same. Everything is interrelated. All of life is like one big, interlocking relationship. Everything you do has a consequence to everything else.”

McGraw met Leffel as a student at the League, after years of searching for something deeper than the high-key Impressionist approach she’d been taught. She had known, even as a child in Oklahoma, she would become a fine artist and had already resolved not to marry or have children, determined instead to follow her own path. Her drawing practice, now recognized as among the finest of her generation, brought new awareness to the medium at a time when few were paying attention to it. Her book, “The Language of Drawing,” is now considered an essential resource for serious draftsmen.

Though McGraw and Leffel made their mark in New York, they moved to Taos in 1992, drawn by the light, the dry air and the mountains. From their studios here, they continue to work and teach, sharing decades of insight through Bright Light Fine Art. Their influence reaches far beyond the canvas: not only in how to paint, but how to see, how to think.

A collector once told Leffel, “I thought your paintings were about quiet.” Leffel replied, “They’re about light and shadow.”

In truth, they’re about both and something more. They are about a way of being in the world, attuned to the deep intelligence of form, and the still, flickering grace of things as they truly are.

Bright Light Fine Art offers online fine art drawing and painting classes for all levels with Leffel, McGraw and landscape painter Jackie Kamin.

brightlightfineart.com

Stolen Art

FBI recovers two Taos treasures missing for 40 years

By Geoffrey Plant
An exhibit at the Harwood displays missing pieces, Aspens by Victor Higgins, left, and Oklahoma Cheyenne by Joseph Henry Sharp, which were recently recovered and are currently being held by the FBI, as seen Friday (March 28). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

Forty years ago, art thieves targeted the Harwood Foundation, an unassuming public library on LeDoux Street with a small exhibition gallery upstairs. A woman distracted the librarian while a mustachioed man removed Victor Higgins’ “Aspens” and Joseph Henry Sharp’s “Indian Boy in Full Dress” and left with them under a long coat.

Thanksgiving that same year, a man and woman used a similar M.O. to lift Willem de Kooning’s “Woman-Ochre” from the University of Arizona Museum of Art in Tucson.

The bizarre 2017 tale surrounding the return of de Kooning’s masterpiece led investigators to the missing works by two members of the Taos Society of Artists.

All three paintings were secreted away for decades in the remote community of Cliff, New Mexico, where they hung inside an innocuous-seeming married couple’s home until 2017. Jerry Alter died in 2012. Rita Alter passed away in 2017. That summer, their nephew cleared out their home.

He engaged a Silver City estate sale company to collect the bulk of the home’s contents, donating other items to a tiny Silver City thrift shop. Removed from the back of the Alter’s bedroom door, the de Kooning went to the estate company’s resale shop, where customers soon identified it as “Woman-Ochre.” News spread like wildfire across the art world that the stolen 1955 work of abstract expressionism, now valued at $160 million, had been found.

After some twists and turns, and a lengthy restoration process, it was returned to the University of Arizona last year.

Initial speculation that the Alters stole from the art museums strictly to keep the works for themselves morphed into theories by amateur investigators that the couple were professional art thieves. They traveled internationally and domestically several times each year, living beyond their means.

A photo shown in the 2022 documentary film “The Thief Collector” shows both Taos Society of Artists paintings on a cozy-looking wall beneath which Jerry Alter is seated playing a clarinet while reading sheet music.

The Higgins and Sharp paintings were among the items donated to the humble Town and Country Garden Club Thrift Store. The nonprofit behind the store ultimately sold the works through the Scottsdale Art Auction in 2018 for $93,600 and $52,650, respectfully. The shop closed in 2021.

In 2024, true crime writer Lou Schachter did some sleuthing to uncover the stolen Taos paintings, writing in a series of articles published by Medium, “In the movie, a garden club volunteer describes the auctioned works and mentions their artists: Joseph Henry Sharp, Victor Higgins, and R.C. Gorman.”

Schachter found a 1985 Taos News story on the Harwood thefts, traced the paintings to the Scottsdale auction and notified the Harwood. In April 2024, the Harwood asked the FBI to track down the paintings, which were found by December.

Juniper Leherissey, executive director at the Harwood Museum of Art, said, “We’re hopeful they will be returned between now and September. We anticipate getting them back.”

Two empty frames representing the stolen works are on display with “Return of Taos Treasures,” an exhibition featuring Joseph Henry Sharp and Victor Higgins’ works from the Harwood’s collection on display until Sept. 7.

The Harwood Museum of Art’s permanent collection includes over 6,500 works of art, including pieces by Sharp, Higgins and the Taos Society of Artists, established July 19, 1915 by Sharp and five other artists and later joined by Higgins, who was also on the founding board of the Harwood Foundation.

Expand your horizons

This trip, take home more than souvenirs

By Ellen Miller-Goins

If you’ve taken to heart the cliche that “travel is broadening,” if you long to return home with more than tacky postcards and forgettable souvenirs, if you’re looking for opportunities to learn a new skill or improve an existing one, Northern New Mexico offers a bounty of opportunities to give your travel experience real roots.

 

Taos has long been a magnet for talent, and visitors have so many options for expanding their minds and creative spirits. Taos’ website lists myriad workshops for painting, photography, cooking and baking, papermaking, fiber arts, pottery, stone carving, dance, yoga, meditation, folk and herbal medicine, and more.

taos.org/explore/arts-culture/workshops

Alumni and guests attend the Taos Cultural Institute class Bringing Life to Art: The History and Legacy of Taos Artists and Their Work taught by Nicholas Myers and Jade Gutierrez on the SMU-in-Taos Campus, July 19, 2024

Taos Art School is a college-accredited institution that has been offering classes for over 30 years in Northern New Mexico. Participants come from all over the world for a week or more to study pottery, weaving, painting, drawing, photography and equine art. Students also learn about local history and culture in a campus-free setting. Discounts offered to locals.

taosartschool.org | 575-758-0350

Taos Ceramics Center offers a variety of eight-week classes, from hand-building and sculpture to wheel throwing, for adults and children all summer long. For those traveling for a short spell, Taos Ceramics Center can also accommodate pre-arranged private and small group lessons for those who would like to experience a ceramics class and create a keepsake from their visit to Taos.

taosceramics.com | 575-758-2580

Victoriano Cárdenas, a trans poet and native of Taos, is among several writers headlining SOMOS’ Taos Writers Showcase during LGBTQIA+ Pride Month in June.

Society of the Muse of the Southwest (SOMOS) holds writing workshops and readings all summer. Their Taos Summer Writers’ Conference (July 25– 27) offers three days of workshops in memoir, poetry, prose fiction and nonfiction, playwriting, and publishing. Keynote speaker Nick Flynn (writer, playwright, poet) has published 12 books and five collections of poetry, His memoir, “Another Bullshit Night in Suck City,” was made into a film starring Robert DeNiro and has been translated into 15 languages. The annual Taos Storytelling Festival takes place every October.

somostaos.org | 575-758-0081

Earthships, invented by Taos architect Michael Reynolds, are off-grid homes built from recycled materials like earth-rammed tires, cans, and bottles. See what the architecture is about in a self-guided, guided or private tour at the Visitor Center, 2 Earthship Way, Tres Piedras (1.5 miles northwest of the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge). You can also gain the skills needed to build your own through intensive four-week building sessions, online programs and more.

earthship.org | 575-613-4409

SMU-in-Taos Cultural Institute offers in-depth courses for adults on a wide-range of topics: jewelry making, fly fishing, cooking, literature, history, painting and politics. The challenge will be selecting which two one-day classes to take during the event held July 17–20.

smu.edu/alumni/events/taos-cultural-institute | 214-768-8267

Ghost Ranch, an education and retreat center 12 miles north of Abiquiu and the former home of famed artist Georgia O’Keeffe, offers workshops on a broad array of subjects: religion, art, folk arts, drama, music, health and wellness, and more. Visitor are also welcome to explore the Ruth Hall Museum of Paleontology and the Florence Hawley Ellis Museum of Anthropology, in addition to the Ghost Ranch Library.

Taos’ Best Dressed

Local fashionistas flaunt their faves

By Ellen Miller- Goins

In these playful, sunlit photo shoots that capture the spirit of Taos fashion, models Savannah Mae Cisneros and Ruthann McCarthy bring effortless charm and bold local style to life, highlighting standout looks from beloved local boutiques.

About Savannah

Savannah Mae Cisneros is a New Mexico native with deep roots in Taos, where her creative spirit and passion for fashion began to flourish. Since her teen years, Savannah has used style as a powerful form of self-expression. As a teen, she says, “I started putting outfits together and posing in my room taking pictures of myself when i was bored.” Inspired by childhood dreams of modeling, she finds joy in transforming herself like a video game character — each look telling a story. She loves experimenting with different looks and posing for photos that reflect her evolving identity. With a natural presence in front of the camera, Savannah is eager to explore opportunities in fashion, modeling and creative expression.

About Michelle’s Boutique

Michelle’s, a vibrant, woman-owned boutique located in the heart of downtown Taos, offers a carefully curated mix of clothing, jewelry and gifts. Specializing in fair-trade, handmade and locally crafted items, Michelle’s showcases one-of-a-kind treasures from both local and international artists. Founder Michelle McIntosh brings decades of fashion retail experience and a deep passion for style, individuality, and community. She’s known for creating a warm, welcoming space where every shopper feels seen and celebrated. Reflecting on the female body, Michelle says, “There are so many stores out there that only cater to one size demographic and I think that is unacceptable. Human beings are beautiful in every size they come in.”

136 Paseo del Pueblo Norte #D, Taos | 575-751-3450

About Ruthann

Taos native Ruthann McCarthy is a dedicated local business owner with deep roots in the community dating back to 1904. As part of the McCarthy family legacy, she has continued the tradition of service and stewardship through her work at Casa Benavides Inn, Legacy Café and the revitalization of McCarthy Plaza. A passionate community advocate, Ruthann founded the Taos Roundtable, a weekly gathering focused on preserving and supporting the heart of Taos. Known for her warmth, tenacity and commitment to honoring family heritage, Ruthann’s leadership continues to reflect the values instilled by generations of McCarthys who helped shape Taos.

 

About B.E.E.Spoke Boutique

B.E.E.Spoke Boutique and Art Café on Bent Street is a vibrant, woman-owned space offering its namesake, Basic Everyday Essentials, with European flair. Founded by Jenny Chapleau, the shop is rooted in sustainability, simplicity and style, featuring ethical brands like Nudie Jeans, local jewelry creations and upcycled flannel fashions. Inspired by Jenny’s time abroad, B.E.E.Spoke brings together organic cotton, bamboo basics and French touches like Colette mohair and linen. Beyond clothing, guests can sip locally roasted coffee or ceremonial matcha in the cozy art café, surrounded by works from Southwest artists. With community events, thoughtful gifts and a welcoming atmosphere, B.E.E.Spoke is both a stylish boutique and a warm, creative hub for locals and visitors alike.

132 Bent St, Taos | @thebeespoke132 | 971-222-8831

 

More Taos shops to sample:

Steppin’ Out

Steppin’ Out offers women’s shoes, clothing and accessories. Known for blending comfort with elegance, the boutique caters to those seeking stylish yet comfortable attire.

Steppin’ Out | John Dunn Shops, 120 Bent St., Ste. K, Taos | steppinout-taos.com | 575-758-4487

Clarke & Co. Menswear

A staple since 1987, Clarke & Co. specializes in contemporary men’s apparel and tailoring services, offering high-quality clothing and exceptional customer service.

Clarke & Co. Menswear | John Dunn House Shops, 120 Bent St., Ste. E | Instagram: @clarkeclothingtaos | 575-758-2696

MODA

MODA is a chic women’s boutique in Taos offering curated fashion, accessories, and gifts. As Clarke & Co.’s sister shop, it features top brands like Pendleton, Tori Richard, Kinross, and more—blending city style with mountain charm.

MODA | John Dunn Shops | 120-124 Bent St, Taos | 575-751-7255

Spotted Bear

Established in 2005, Spotted Bear is celebrated for its unique inventory and personalized customer service, making it a favored destination for both locals and visitors.

Spotted Bear | 127 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos | on Facebook | 575-758-3040

Aurora Folk Arts

Aurora Folk Arts is a treasure trove of antiques, art and unique gifts, including a selection of items reflecting the rich history of the Southwest, handmade textiles and sustainable self-care products.

Aurora Folk Arts | 16 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Ste. A, Taos | aurorafolkarts.com | 575-737-9766

Moxie Fair Trade & Handmade

Moxie offers a diverse range of fair trade and handmade items, including clothing, home decor and unique gifts, all sourced ethically to promote economic independence for artisans.

Moxie Fair Trade & Handmade | 216B Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos | taosmoxie.com | 575-758-1256

Hands and heart: The artists of Arroyo Seco

By Ekin Balcıoğlu

If you follow the road out of Taos north, the valley begins to shift. Chamisa and sagebrush give way to cottonwoods and curves. You pass through open fields and old fences, then arrive in Arroyo Seco, a village that doesn’t announce itself but simply receives you.

Santos y Mas

It’s small, but it holds a lot — layers of story, layers of time. It’s a place where artists and ranchers, pilgrims and potters, seekers and stayers have all left their traces in adobe and woodsmoke.

When I landed here, I didn’t yet know I was arriving home. I had come with a dream to open a gallery for clay and textiles. I couldn’t expect how quickly I’d be folded into something larger.

Old Bones: Gallery for Clay and Textiles opened December in the building where Claireworks once stood. My creative partner in clay, Max Massey, and I filled the space with ceramics meant to be touched, used and passed down. Alongside them are hand-embroidered suzanis, traditional Central Asian textiles with intricate floral motifs, Turkish silks and woven pieces carefully gathered by my parents from villages across Anatolia. We’ve set aside a small corner for hammam textiles, peshtemals and robes that carry the scent of bathhouses and slow rituals.

Twin Trees by Ekin Balcıoğlu & Max Massey

Seco is a village built by hands. Laurel Taylor at Wilde.Ink block prints linen shawls and soft blankets in her studio. Sometimes I pass her in the morning, outside with her dye pots gently steaming in the cold, carefully dipping fabric into rich hues of indigo and rust, colors slowly blooming in the soft morning air.

Wilde.Ink Shop

Just beyond us, Santos y Mas is filled with carved saints and retablos, milagros, antiques, turquoise jewelry and treasures tucked gently among shelves. Patricia Reza’s warmth fills every corner, alongside colorful little postcards painted by her young granddaughter, joyful reminders of creativity passed softly from one generation to the next.

 

Santos y Mas

Logan Wannamaker’s work is shaped by the high desert: its earthy tones, spaciousness and quiet sense of balance. He fires with wood, soda and salt, allowing fire and time to leave their trace. His gallery just next door includes three working studios and features his own pieces and work by his apprentices, alongside functional ware and custom dish sets.

 

Logan Wannamaker Pottery

Rottenstone Pottery keeps its kilns burning as a landmark for wood-fired ceramics in the Southwest. Scott Rutherford, who has worked in clay here for decades, brings together both Japanese and American folk traditions, firing in massive groundhog and anagama kilns. His gallery features the work of dozens of regional artists and has become a steady anchor for clay in the region.

Across the street, in a building lightly scented with cedar and ink, Jack Leustig’s Fine Art New Mexico houses one of the largest collections of Southwest print art in the country. Known nationally for its museum-grade prints, the gallery is guided by Jack’s thoughtful presence and the meticulous eye of studio manager Liz Mercuri, whose care ensures each piece reflects their shared dedication to quality.


Nearby is Arroyo Seco Mercantile, a cabinet of curiosities brimming with vintage jewelry, rocks and minerals, toys, games, and gifts you didn’t know you were looking for. Each shelf feels thoughtfully curated by owner Jeanie Clinton, filled with charm and a touch of playful mischief.

Arroyo Seco Mercantile

A few buildings down, Taos Wools is full of color. Joe Barry hand-dyes yarns in small batches, many from churro sheep raised nearby. His daughter helps twist skeins and pack orders. There’s a rhythm to it: family and fiber, looped together.

Joe Barry hand-dyes yarns in small batches for Taos Wools

More and more, Seco is becoming a magnet for artists, especially ceramicists. Between the kilns, studios, shared firings, and steady camaraderie, there’s a quiet sense that something is building here, a hub rooted not in trend but in tradition and deep making.

Seco isn’t curated. It isn’t polished. But it’s deeply lived-in. People come here looking for something: a bowl, a shawl, a moment. But what they find, if they’re paying attention, is a village made of intention. Of beauty shaped slowly. Of work done with care. Art here doesn’t shout. It rests in corners, hangs from pegs, sits warm in your hands.

There’s something about Seco that invites you to listen more closely: to the land, to the stories in the walls, to the shape of your own breath as it softens. And if you’re lucky, Arroyo Seco takes you in.

The return of Mantes Chow Cart

North side location reopens following extensive renovations

By Olivia Lewis

After closing a year ago for renovations, the original Mantes Chow Cart — beloved for its signature burritos piled high with chiles — reopened for business across from the Taos County Courthouse Complex.

Mante Chacon, co-owner of Mante’s Chow Cart, left, and his brother Tim Chacon pose for a portrait alongside a picture of their parents Mante and Gloria Chacon, who started Mante’s Chow Cart in 1973 as a food cart in the Taos Plaza, in the dinging room of their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). Mante’s Chow Cart’s new brick and mortar location is expected to open this week. DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

For Mante Chacon Jr., who co-owns the restaurant with his family, reopening Mantes Chow Cart is about carrying on a family tradition started by his father, the late Mante Chacon Sr.

Bryan Chavez makes red chile pork tamales prior to Mante’s Chow Cart’s grand reopening for their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

“My motivation is to keep my dad’s legacy alive,” Chacon says. “He built so many relationships and was so important to the community.”

The Chacon family owns two Chow Cart locations on the north and south ends of town. The reopened restaurant is just north of Albright Street on Paseo del Pueblo Sur. Chacon says they closed the building because their parking lot became too congested after they lost parking space to the years-long NM 68–U.S. 64 road construction project.

In the interim, they ran a food cart similar to the bread delivery van Mante Chacon Sr. converted into a food cart in 1973. Mantes Chow Cart has been a staple of Taos, offering the likes of Susie burritos with a chile relleno and guacamole, stuffed sopapillas, cheeseburgers, chalupas and tamale pies. Over the years, the business grew into two restaurants, Comidas del Mante and the north-side Mantes Chow Cart.

Bryan Chavez, right, and Tim Chacon make red chile pork tamales prior to Mante’s Chow Cart’s grand reopening for their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

When the north side Mantes Chow Cart opened, it added a drive thru and carhop service that operated through the 1990s. Comidas del Mante closed, and in 2006 the family opened La Cocina, which eventually became Mantes south-side location.

“Both of my parents really came from nothing, and I always told my dad that he built an empire,” Chacon Jr. says.

Mante Chacon, co-owner of Mante’s Chow Cart, puts down a tray full of freshly made tamales prior to Mante’s Chow Cart’s grand reopening for their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). Mante’s Chow Cart’s new brick and mortar location is expected to open this week. DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

Chacon Sr. passed away due to COVID-19 complications at a Colorado Springs hospital in November 2020. Chacon Sr. father was an honorary firefighter who helped raise funds for local organizations like the Taos Volunteer Fire Department. Before his family brought him back to Taos after he died, Taos County Sheriff Steve Miera offered the family a police escort starting from the county line and into town. When the family arrived, Taos community members were waiting for them.

People enjoy themselves at Mante’s Chow Cart’s newly constructed north side location during their grand reopening Tuesday (March 4). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

“There was a parade of cars,” Chacon says. “I think they estimated it to be around 400 cars, and people were just going in a line, and they followed the procession into town. My brother was waiting with my mom, and they joined the procession. My dad used to work at Hotel La Fonda, so we drove around the plaza. Then, we drove around here and ended up going all of the way to the other Mantes. We drove around the restaurant, and all along the way, people had signs. They were holding up signs and waving. It was such a touching thing, you know?”

He added, “We drove up to the other Mantes as well. It was during COVID, so you really couldn’t do anything. My mom sat in the car, and we parked. Everybody waited, went through the procession and gave their condolences through the drive thru.”

Mante’s Chow Cart’s newly constructed north side location as seen during their grand reopening Tuesday (March 4). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

Today, Chacon Jr. runs the restaurant’s north-side location with his wife, Ernestine Chacon, and brother, Tim Chacon. His sister, Louella Conway and other brother, Tim Chacon, manage the south-side location near the Dollar General Store on Paseo del Pueblo Sur.

Inside the newly renovated restaurant hang framed photographs of the Chacon family, which a family friend named Manuel Aguilar offered to print and frame. In one, Chacon’s father smiles widely beside his wife, Gloria Chacon. In another, he picks and sorts through green hatch chiles from a farm out of Hatch, New Mexico.

Bryan Chavez makes red chile pork tamales in Mante’s Chow Cart’s new north side kitchen prior to the restaurant’s grand reopening for their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

Because many of their dishes are made from scratch, the family prepped red Chile pork tamales and other dishes prior to reopening. They also spent time familiarizing themselves and staff with the larger kitchen. Eleven of the staff had worked at Mantes prior to the renovation.

The north side Mantes Chow Cart is open Monday through Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. The menu will remain the same, with the possibility of some future additions.

Mante Chacon, co-owner of Mante’s Chow Cart, checks on how their freshly made red chile pork tamales are coming along as they cook in their kitchen’s giant kettle prior to Mante’s Chow Cart’s grand reopening for their newly constructed north side location Saturday (Mar. 1). Mante’s Chow Cart’s new brick and mortar location is expected to open this week. DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

“It’s not all of the things that he accumulated,” Chacon says, citing the empire he says his father built. “He did well for himself, especially for not having anything, but it’s more about the relationships and the things that he was able to accomplish through them.”

 

Mantes Chow Cart, located just north of Albright Street on Paseo del Pueblo Sur, is open Monday through Saturday, 6:30 a.m.–9 p.m. For more information, visit manteschowcart.com or call 575-758-3632.

Weddings in Northern New Mexico

A destination like no other

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Northern New Mexico has become a premier destination for couples seeking a stunning wedding with a unique sense of place. Couples choose this area not only for its natural beauty, but for its deep cultural heritage and welcoming people.

“Many couples have a connection to this place, whether through family, past travels, or simply a love for the scenery,” says James Denio of Nest Events in Taos. “They want their wedding to reflect who they are, and Northern New Mexico allows them to showcase their love in a meaningful way.”

Some of the most beautiful weddings take place surrounded by nothing but towering aspen trees, wildflowers and snow-capped peaks. Wedding planners like Denio — and Karen Kelly of KWK Events in Red River — know not only where that perfect site is, they know if it’s possible.

“You need infrastructure,” Denio says. “If we’re going to do a wedding out on the mesa, if there’s 100 people going out there, you’re going to create a footprint. You want comforts, and you also want to showcase the land. You need vendors who can make something happen without taking away from the scenery by bringing that infrastructure in.”

Arranging for porta-potties definitely isn’t romantic. This is where a skilled wedding planner helps. Planning a wedding in a destination location requires experienced hands. Kelly says it helps to be prepared for every dream. “There’s people who book private homes and do everything at the home… and there’s two person elopements that come up here with their two best friends or their parents and get married on the bridge.”

Popular venues include several private homes with stunning vistas or riverside romance, but Kelly and Denio both also arrange weddings at popular venues like Taos Goji Eco Lodge Retreat, Hotel Luna Mystica, El Monte Sagrado, The Stakeout and the new Hotel Willa.

“It’s magnificent,” Kelly says. “They’re going to have beautiful areas for weddings.

Both Kelly and Denio say their job goes way beyond providing a service.

“If someone’s coming to me, it’s because we resonate with each other, and we have similar interests and morals and ideas about what this place actually means,” Denio says. “This place is an outward representation of what’s already happening within them.”

“It’s a fun business to be in because you’re making people happy,” Kelly says, noting how many past clients routinely bring new babies in to meet her. “You’re a part of their lives for the rest of their lives.”

 

 

Arrange your big day with a local wedding planner:

KWK Events

kwkevents.com

575-595-1971

 

Nest Events

nesteventsplanning.com

360-739-2398

 

Local ski areas offer mountain venues with in-house planning services:

Taos Ski Valley

skitaos.com/weddings

800-776-1111

 

Angel Fire Resort

angelfireresort.com/groups/weddings

800-633-7463

 

Sipapu

sipapu.ski/plan-your-trip/sipapu-weddings

575-587-2240

 

For more Taos-area locations, see taos.org/plan/weddings.

Eliza Gilkyson is still singing through the storms

By Haven Lindsey

Late afternoon sunlight filters through the windowpanes in Eliza Gilkyson’s century-old home near Taos, New Mexico. Her husband, Robert “Bob” Jensen, greets me at the door as the warmth from the woodstove envelops me.

Eliza Gilkyson performs at Michael Hearne’s 22nd Annual Big Barn Dance Music Festival in Kit Carson Park on Wednesday (Sept. 4). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News

Gilkyson, the twice Grammy-nominated folksinger, enters the room wearing black, the dark fabric accentuating her cropped gray hair and bright, knowing eyes. There’s a quiet aura of peace and contentment around her. As we settle into her cozy living room — its walls adorned with colorful New Mexican tapestries and Buddhist thangkas — I become even more aware of her sense of ease. It feels like the quiet wisdom of a life led with intention.

I’m here to talk with Gilkyson about her new album, “Dark Ages.” At 74, she’s lived through other dark times and moments of rebellion. The album is filled with songs that guide today’s listeners through the political and environmental upheaval of our current reality in 2025. But it also reflects who Gilkyson is — deeply caring, with a profound love for the planet, humanity and the people in her life.

Nathan Burton/Taos News
Musician Eliza Gilkyson stands for portrait at her home in Arroyo Seco.

She’s a person with decades of lived experience and a seasoned musician who understands the difference between a powerful lyric and a powerful crescendo. Not everyone can see the shadows of political unrest and the climate crisis clearly without being consumed by the darkness. Gilkyson has found a balance, much like the way the moon casts its light on the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that rise above her home: It’s not a blinding flood of light, but a soft, steady presence.

There is simple acuity to Gilkyson, but that doesn’t mean life is simpler now.

“When I was a hippie, living gig to gig, two keys on my keychain — that was a simpler life,” she explains. “Having kids changed some of that, but even then, it was simpler than now. Back then, we had a feeling we had a future. But now, the life of our planet is threatened. We’ve come through dark times — worse than this — but we’ve never seen a climate crisis like this before.”

“Dark Ages” captures both Gilkyson’s self-described “apoplectic” mindset and the love and peace she embodies.

“My job is to make sure people continue to care,” she says of the songs on her new album. “I don’t want to live in a world where people don’t care.”

Music, she says, keeps her young.

“I full-on care, but you can’t live in a state of constant grief. We don’t know what’s coming, but I will continue to show up as a sentient being.” She describes being “gob smacked” that people voted for Project 2025. “The songs started coming out after the election, and one of them was a song I wrote more than 50 years ago. It has an innocence to it.”

The album begins, as she describes, “from a place of light,” with “Song to You” — soft, sincere and serene. The song feels like a hug. The album guides the listener through emotions that are ripe and raw now.

“Holy” is her favorite song on the album.

“There are people who rise up, who fight, and they are holy to me,” she reflects.

“Dark Ages” is, as she describes, “a scathing takedown of the current regime,” as we both note how common the word “regime” has become. “Dark Night of the Soul” is upbeat. “The song helps put things in perspective — we need to keep the lights on through the dark night of the soul.”

“Stranger” is a song about her husband of 20 years. “It’s a love song but not presumptuous. It’s personal, about the truth of not really knowing someone completely.” The album culminates with “Esta Salida del Sol,” a simple song, Gilkyson notes, “because I can only write Spanish in the present tense.”

Like the final song on an album, our conversation didn’t feel like it was ending, but rather something that lingers, waiting to be played again. The aroma of dinner on the stove, however, began to weave its way into the living room. Bob is the cook in the family, and his signature rice and greens dish, borrowed from his late friend Jim Koplin, was nearly ready. One taste, and I was an instant believer.

Later, I realized I never asked Gilkyson — who deeply feels the weight of our world — what success means to her. But as I thought about her work as a musician, her role as a wife and life partner, a mother and grandmother, I realized she had already answered the question. Gilkyson knows what success is. She’s living it.

FYI

Gilkyson joins Andrea Magee’s annual She Rises III Music Fest July 18–19 at Daleee at, 9 NM150, Taos. For more information, tickets and to join the email list, visit sherisesfest.com.

Hankering for comfort food

New Mexican cookbook gathers well-loved traditions

By Amy Boaz

“When cooking New Mexican food,” cautiously presents the compiler of these recipes, “not only do you want a particular dish, but often you want the dish as it was prepared by your mother, grandmother or uncle.” Art Pollard’s cookbook is rather a compendium of recipes gathered from beloved cookbooks over the ages and the long memories of abuelas. It serves as a fantastic historical document.

Having grown up “in part” in Los Alamos, now residing in Utah (he runs the Amano Artisan Chocolate company), Pollard’s earliest memories are savoring meals at Philomena’s in Los Alamos and Río Grande Café in Española. Hankering for his childhood comfort food, Pollard has culled from a dozen well-worn cookbooks over the last decades and grouped hundreds of recipes by kinds of vegetables, salads, appetizers, dips, breakfast offerings, soups and stews, main dishes (e.g., meat-heavy flautas), salsas, breads and desserts, among others.

The cookbook sources (listed in the bibliography at the back) move from the earliest, classic Alice Stevens’ “New Mexican Cookery” (New Mexico Land Office, 1916) to former Taos News Food Editor Fayne Lutz’s “Cooking Northern New Mexico Traditional Foods” (Taos News, 1989). Lutz also documented recipes from the Taos Plaza mainstay La Cocina de Taos (closed in 1991) in her “Recipes for Authentic Northern New Mexico Food from La Cocina de Taos” (1976). Other sources include books from legendary restaurant owners and chefs like Philomena Romero, J.C. Griggs (“A Family Affair,” 1968), Della Montoya, Dona Eloise Delgado de Stewart and Fabiola Cebeza de Baca Gilbert (“Historic Cookery,” 1931).

‘Enchantment: A New Mexican Cookbook’
Compiled by Art Pollard

Let’s dig in. What do New Mexicans eat? “Enchiladas” cover a good 13 pages, divided into green chile and red sections, and offering wildly different sauce styles, with a preponderance of canned cream of mushroom or chicken soup (“Green Chile Recipe Fiesta,” New Mexico State Alumni Association, 1973). Chicken, beef, meatloaf, liver, tongue, goat, venison and veal — all à la New Mexican. How about spicy beef with nectarines (“Finalist”) from the “Great Southwest Cooking Classic” (1977)? Or nine different versions of arroz con pollo?

There are only a couple moles, one from the “Fiesta Fare” cookbook (1956), featuring raisins, pumpkin seeds and Mexican chocolate. However, under the heading “Sauces,” we move from chile caribe to BBQ sauces to chile sauces from everyone’s mother: I would try each one for variety. Also, the 33 ways to make chile rellenos! Numerous tamale tips and savory chile pies abound, and how about that dazzling Chilizza Pie (sautéed peppers and pepperoni, stewed tomatoes and Parmesan), created by Mrs. Barney Gardner of Albuquerque in “Great Southwest Cooking Classic”?

“Breads” cover a vast swath of yeasty delights, such as empanaditas, biscuits, buñuelos, fritters, sopaipillas and fry bread. For the last item, Mrs. Pappan, “cherished cook at the Albuquerque Indian School,” and of Pawnee heritage, offers her Navajo fried bread from “Fiesta Fare.” Everything corn dominates the bread section, naturally, boasting a dozen kinds of cornbread and tortillas (also blue corn). Varieties of biscochitos mark the “Desserts” section, crammed with other beloved concoctions that carry their luscious original Spanish names: almendrado (nutty almond), capirotada (bread pudding), sopa de borracho (you can guess), chongos (custards), jericalla (like a flan), natillas (boiled custard), panocha (sprouted wheat pudding) and marquesote (sponge cake), among many others. There’s even a “Pickled” chapter to keep us weeping.

Charmingly, if somewhat frustratingly, the recipes are not edited for consistency or currentness. For example, Chile Verde Tomas is still gunning for an addition of “2 tablespoons monosodium glutamate” (“Green Chile Recipe Fiesta,” 1973). But these recipes are precious throwbacks to Nana’s kitchen, and who can resist trying John Sena’s Balloon Rally Posole or even — gulp — Bowl of the Wife of Kit Carson?

Aldo Leopold House opens for public rentals

Mi Casita carries on conservationist’s legacy

By Emery Veilleux

Standing on the front porch of the cabin in Tres Piedras, looking out across the mesa to the blue mountains in the east, it’s clear some things have changed since pioneering conservationist Aldo Leopold lived there during his time as forest supervisor.

Electricity lines hum quietly, strung high over a pair of propane tanks. Cars whirr down U.S. 285 through a sagebrush landscape dotted with buildings.

 

But still, some things remain unchanged: The ponderosas bend in an oncoming storm. Grazing permits are sometimes still as contentious as when Leopold himself first implemented them.

Mi Casita maintains its craftsman-style bones and original wood, processed by Aldo Leopold and Walt Perry in 1912, but has been updated for some 21st century comforts, including electricity, heating, a full bathroom and a fully equipped kitchen, including a coffee maker.

This spring, the Carson National Forest opened the Aldo Leopold House in Tres Piedras for public rentals, marking the first such cabin rental on National Forest land in New Mexico. Previously reserved for writers-in-residence through the Leopold Writing Program, the house now welcomes up to eight overnight guests.

Leopold, a pioneering conservationist and author of “A Sand County Almanac,” is considered the father of American wilderness. During his tenure as a forest supervisor, he lived briefly in Tres Piedras, where he began formulating his influential land ethic philosophy. His efforts helped establish the Gila Wilderness, the nation’s first designated wilderness, which celebrated its centennial in 2024.

Built in 1912 by Leopold and fellow ranger Walter Perry, the two-story craftsman bungalow was funded by the Forest Service and served as Leopold’s residence with his wife, Estella. Named “Mi Casita,” the house features dark walnut-stained beams, a basalt rock fireplace, and a historic farmhouse kitchen. The surrounding property includes a root cellar, barn, old ranger station, and corral.

Though Leopold lived in the cabin for only nine months, his time there was significant.

 

He arrived in 1912 from Arizona’s Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest, where he had a pivotal encounter with a dying wolf he shot that reshaped his views on predators’ roles in ecosystems. These experiences influenced his foundational “land ethic,” a principle that emphasized seeing nature as a community rather than a resource for human exploitation.

These ideas that would become Leopold’s legacy began percolating in Northern New Mexico.

“When he landed on the Carson, those things really started to hatch,” said Angie Krall, district ranger for Carson National Forest West Zone.

Richard Rubin, longtime site steward and author of “Living the Leopolds’ Mi Casita Ecology,” speaks to the history of Mi Casita, pictured, on Sunday (Jan. 12).

Leopold’s legacy is complex. While he championed conservation, he also implemented policies that restricted land access — to the detriment of Hispano and Indigenous communities.

“For local populations, he wasn’t necessarily a hero,” Krall said. “He represented a major shift in land management in New Mexico.”

Leopold left Mi Casita in 1913 after falling ill while resolving a grazing dispute. He later worked in Albuquerque, founding the Office of Grazing and the Albuquerque Wildlife Federation. His career eventually took him to Wisconsin, where he wrote extensively and helped establish the American wilderness system. Today, over 111 million acres of federal land, including 1.9 million in New Mexico, are protected as wilderness.

Richard and Annette Rubin, longtime stewards of Mi Casita, speak about the cabin’s history on its front porch, sitting on a bench Aldo Leopold designed. When Leopold lived in Wisconsin, Richard said, “He would put out the Leopold bench and he was out there, writing with his pipe at 4 in the morning, listening to the birds.”

Mi Casita has undergone multiple restorations. A 2005 plan aimed to preserve its historic integrity while introducing modern amenities. Recent renovations, funded by the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law, included a new cedar-shingle roof, septic system upgrades, and chimney repairs. The cabin now features electricity, heating, and a fully equipped kitchen and bathroom, making it one of the most comfortable rentals on Rec.gov.

The house also serves as an educational space. An extensive library features works by Leopold and other conservationists. Guests are encouraged to engage with the landscape and reflect on their own land ethic.

The nearly 150-book library at Mi Casita, pictured beside the basalt-rock fireplace Sunday (Jan. 12), houses inspirational reads: Leopold’s writings, likeminded books and the works of authors who used their residency with the Leopold Writing Program at the cabin to develop land ethic-based works.

Rentals, available spring through fall, cost $175 per night, with proceeds funding site maintenance and educational projects. Two months each year will remain reserved for the Leopold Writing Program’s residents. Future plans include interpretive trails and accessibility improvements.

As storms continue settle and pass over the Sangre de Cristos, visible across the mesa, the house remains a testament to Leopold’s legacy.

“He just loved the view from the porch,” said Annette Rubin, longtime site steward.

Cimarron’s St. James Hotel

New owners revive ‘a beautiful part of history’

By Olivia Lewis

When the St. James Hotel in Cimarron shuttered last fall, the future appeared uncertain for one of the most storied lodges of the Old West era.

Thea Maestas, front desk manager, walks down the hall Tuesday past guest rooms on the second floor of the St. James Hotel in
Cimarron, originally built in 1872. The landmark hotel on the Santa Fe Trail was a stomping ground for such Wild West icons as
Wyatt Earp, Jesse James, Buffalo Bill Cody, Clay Allison, Black Jack Ketchum and Billy the Kid.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican

By winter, however, the hotel had reopened under two new owners: Red River-based father-daughter duo Chad and Alyse Mantz, CEO and director of operations, respectively, for M Vacation Properties & Resorts, a rental and property management company with multiple properties in Taos and Red River.

The historic St. James Hotel in Cimmaron seen in 2023. The hotel, which was built in 1972 along the old Santa Fe Trail and
originally known as Lambert’s Saloon, is set to close Sept. 17.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican

“For me, the St. James is a beautiful part of history,” Alyse says. “I was so excited to have the opportunity to keep it going and make sure it’s preserved. I’m a little bit of a history nerd, so this has been awesome.”

Between its rugged antiques, ghostly reputation and 26 bullet holes in the bar’s tin ceiling, the St. James Hotel has been part of Cimarron’s heritage for more than a century. The hotel was built in 1872 by Henri “Henry” Lambert, a former personal chef of President Abraham Lincoln, during the heyday of the Santa Fe Trail.

A collection of paintings of various Wild West icons hang at the historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican

The 24 hotel rooms are named for the famous lawmen, outlaws and sharpshooters who stayed there: Buffalo Bill Cody, Doc Holliday, Annie Oakley, Wyatt Earp, Jessie James, Clay Allison, Black Jack Ketchum, and Billy the Kid, to name a few.

The hotel closed Sept. 16 after it was announced that Bob Funk, the hotel’s owner since 2009, would be retiring due to health reasons.

“It was different from any kind of transaction I’ve had before because the Funk family is very passionate about this,” Chad says. “They wanted to make sure that it was being passed on to someone who would maintain the rich Western history ….”

Cimarron and the hotel were a well-trodden stop on the Santa Fe Trail for travelers. More recently, the nearby Philmont Boy Scout Ranch today brings thousands of visitors to the area each summer, many celebrating at the St. James Hotel after their treks.

The historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron is now up for sale “for interested buyers who are committed to preserving its unique
legacy,” according to a statement from Jennifer Callahan of the Oklahoma law firm McAfee & Taft, which represents hotel owner
Bob Funk.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican

Near Halloween, the hotel sees upticks in visitors seeking paranormal experiences.

“You can take a tour down the hallways and the things that happened in this place are amazing,” Chad said of their interest in the hotel’s history. “There’s still bullet holes in the ceiling of the saloon, so just the history of it is crazy.”