Carved in Faith

The Santos of Millicent Rogers Museum

By Ellen Miller-Goins

Inside Millicent Rogers Museum, carved saints gaze quietly from gallery walls and display cases. Some appear stern; others, tender. Their painted robes glow in deep reds, blues and golds, their surfaces worn with the patina that comes from time, touch and devotion. Together, these bultos and retablos form one of the most significant public collections of Northern New Mexico santos in the world.

This is not a gallery to rush through. The best way to experience it is slowly, allowing your eyes to settle on the details: a saint’s face softened by age, the faint crackle of gesso, the brushwork along a sleeve, the way wood grain emerges through paint — a quiet reminder that these images begin as something living.

For those who grew up here, santos may feel as familiar as weathered adobe and cottonwoods lining an acequia. They appear in homes, chapels and churches, serving not only as works of art but as companions in prayer and daily life. In many families, they are passed down through generations, carrying both spiritual and personal histories.

At the Millicent Rogers Museum, that living connection remains central. “Part of what is so significant and rich about the santo tradition is the reference to the masters,” says Claire Pelaez Motsinger, museum curator. “These compositions and approaches are still being used in the contemporary tradition.”

The forms themselves are simple to define, yet impossible to reduce. Bultos are carved wooden figures. Retablos are painted panels, often displayed on household altars or in churches and chapels. Both are created by santeros — artists who have shaped a distinctly Northern New Mexico tradition over centuries, tracing back to the colonial period.

Spanish missionaries introduced Catholic imagery as a way to teach religious stories. Over time, local artisans adapted these forms. Early santeros worked with what the land provided — cottonwood roots, ponderosa pine, natural pigments and piñon sap varnish. The results are not polished European icons, but something more immediate and human: sacred images shaped by local hands, knowledge, and devotion.

The Millicent Rogers Museum is one of only a handful of institutions with a collection of this scale. “We are one of eight museums that have more than 100 Northern New Mexico santos in their collection,” Pelaez Motsingers says. “It’s a very small group of institutions that represent this work on that scale.”

That breadth allows the museum to tell a more complete story. The exhibit is divided between historic and contemporary traditions, revealing both the roots and evolution of the form. Earlier pieces reflect Spanish colonial influence, while more recent works show how artists continue to reinterpret the tradition today.

Spend time in the gallery, and the distinctions begin to blur. Across centuries, the same gestures repeat: hands raised in blessing, eyes lifted upward, bodies carved with quiet intensity. What changes is not the purpose, but the artist’s voice.

“The museum demonstrates not just the objects, but a real sense of place,” Pelaez Motsinger says.

That sense of place is everywhere — in the materials, in the forms, even in the gallery itself. The rooms echo the textures and tones of Northern New Mexico, grounding the collection in the landscape that shaped it.

Santeros, past and present, are valued not only for their craftsmanship but for their devotion. Their work reflects a tradition that remains very much alive. Santos are not separate from everyday life. They are part of it. They have been handled, prayed to, repaired and passed down. They are artworks, certainly. But they are also reminders of a living tradition.

For many who pass through the gallery, the experience is not only visual. It is deeply human.

A Museum Rooted in Place

The Millicent Rogers Museum, founded in 1956 by Paul Peralta-Ramos (one of Rogers’ sons), includes 15 galleries arranged around a central courtyard in a hacienda-style layout.

“It’s a home-like feeling combined with a formal museum setting,” says Claire Pelaez Motsinger. “We try to balance those two things.” One of the first stops for many visitors is the pottery gallery, anchored by the work of Maria Martinez of San Ildefonso Pueblo. The museum’s collection traces the arc of her career, from early polychrome and redware to the iconic black-on-black pottery she developed with her husband, Julian, and later continued with her family.

Nearby galleries expand that story of place and tradition. The museum holds more than 7,000 objects, including Native American art, jewelry, textiles and Hispanic devotional works, offering a broad view of the cultures that shape Northern New Mexico. The museum is moving toward a more focused exploration of the cultures it represents, while continuing to refresh galleries and rotate objects.

“We represent Hispanic and Native traditions in the area,” Pelaez Motsinger says. “That’s really where deeper education can happen.”

Following the death of executive director Karen Chertok, the museum is in the process of hiring new leadership, with a new executive director expected soon.

Millicent Rogers Museum

1504 Millicent Rogers Rd, El Prado

575-758-2462

millicentrogers.org

The Enduring Legacy of DeAnna Autumn Leaf Suazo

Millicent Rogers Museum to host a tribute to promising Taos Pueblo artist

By Rick Romancito

The art of an emerging Taos Pueblo artist whose life was tragically cut short is on display in a tribute exhibition — “Honoring the Life and Work of DeAnna Autumn Leaf Suazo” — at the Millicent Rogers Museum.

The artist of Diné and Taos Pueblo heritage created work that “reflected the cultural significance, aesthetics, and strength of her communities,” a museum statement reads. She was by all accounts a rising star in the art world.

Then, on Nov. 13, 2021, Suazo’s life was cut short at the hands of her boyfriend, Santiago Martinez, who later was sentenced to 10 years in federal prison after pleading guilty to voluntary manslaughter. The sentence drew widespread disappointment from DeAnna’s family and supporters who publicly stated it did not reflect the severity of the crime, a TV news report stated.

The daughter of well-known artists Gary David Suazo of Taos Pueblo and Geraldine Tso of the Navajo Nation, DeAnna, 29, began making art at an early age, according to an article by this writer in the June 2024 edition of Trend Magazine. One of her fondest memories is from the time she attended the Taos Pueblo Head Start program as a young child.

“We were drawing on the floor with crayons and I remember one of the teachers was like, ‘Oh wow, DeAnna, you put a neck on your person!’ And, for some reason, that memory always stuck. Why wouldn’t you put a neck on a human figure?,” she said. “My art now is about Indigenous women present today, so what I’m doing is incorporating traditional attire — of course, it’s pre-contact attire.”

“I’m Taos Pueblo and Navajo, but we’re also very modern and know how to balance the two,” she said.

DeAnna graduated from the Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) in the spring of 2021 with a degree in studio arts. She also was admitted to IAIA‘s inaugural “MFA in Studio Arts” cohort in Summer 2021.

“DeAnna loved celebrating her Diné and Taos Pueblo heritage and creating art that reflected Pueblo cultural significance and aesthetics,” reads a statement from IAIA issued upon her passing. “Inspired by heroic figures of Japanese manga novels, including Sailor Moon, she imbued her work with memory, resilience and good intentions. Her most recent work emphasized figural paintings of strong Indigenous women that, in her words, ‘grind every day for a better community.’”

Her father said a small posthumous show at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque drew huge crowds, many of whom left comments like, “I’m so glad someone finally is doing something with pop culture for Native Americans. I loved the girl with the bubble gum. I loved the sunglasses.”

DeAnna showed artwork at the Southwest Association for Indian Arts Market (SWAIA) for over a decade. She was also a featured artist at many national art markets including the Heard Museum Indian Market and Fair, the Autry Museum Artist Market and the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian Artist Market. She was a SITE Santa Fe Scholar and a 2021 Taos Fine Arts Visionary Artist.

“She will be remembered as a dedicated student, a devoted friend, a kind person, and a passionate artist whose creativity knew no bounds,” the statement concludes.

In downtown Taos, anyone driving along Civic Plaza Drive will be reminded of her as one of the images on a mural painted on the south wall of the University of New Mexico-Taos’ Rio Grande Hall. The “Historical Women of Taos” mural by renowned artist Jenny Ustick also features images of ancestral matriarch María Rosa Villalpando, historic preservationist Cleofas Martinez Jaramillo and philanthropist Helene Wurlitzer. The mural was unveiled in May of 2022.

Inspired by her sister Shaundine, DeAnna began making drawings at an early age that reflected her interests in the world around her, “making them to her style,” her mom, Geraldine Tso, said. “She just did what she wanted.” Starting with small drawings, she eventually wanted to do larger and larger pieces. “I just let her go with it,” Tso said.

As one would expect, losing her daughter in an act of violence affected her deeply. “It struck me really hard when I was first told by Shaundine who called me early that morning,” she said. “All I could think was a beautiful girl has been taken away. It hurt a lot.”

“To this day, I feel very sad that she’s gone. I always wait for her to come through the door and say, ‘Hi mom!’”

Honoring the Life and Work of DeAnna Autumn Leaf Suazo

Exhibition continues through March 1, 2027. Museum hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursday through Tuesday. General admission is $20, with $15 admission daily for veterans, students, and seniors (65+). Taos County residents receive free entry to the museum every Sunday. Free daily admission for children under 6, museum members, and tribal members.

Visit millicentrogers.org for updates about this exhibition and for winter hours.

Secret Galleries of Taos

Some of the town’s most remarkable art lives far beyond museums

By Haven Lindsey

In Taos, art is not always where you expect it. Yes, there are museums. Yes, there are galleries. But some of the most remarkable collections in town hide in places many visitors never think to look: hospital corridors, an active volunteer firehouse and even the restrooms at The Blake at Taos Ski Valley.

Inside Holy Cross Hospital, a quiet surprise stretches along the hallways: an art collection with well over 450 works. Paintings, photography, sculpture and mixed-media pieces line the corridors. Most pieces come from Taos artists, many of whom earn recognition far beyond Northern New Mexico.

The collection grows organically over decades as artists donate work — sometimes in gratitude, sometimes simply because art and community have always been intertwined in Taos. After all, the signpost banners declare: “Taos is Art.”

Today the result feels unexpected: a museum-scale collection embedded inside a place dedicated to healing. As visitors and patients walk the halls, they encounter landscapes, portraits and abstract works that reflect the artistic spirit of the region.

The art transforms an otherwise clinical space into something reflective, turning a simple walk down a hospital hallway into a quiet gallery experience.

If the local hospital’s art scene seems surprising, the next stop raises the element of surprise to a whole new level: the Taos Volunteer Fire Department, which may be the last place most people expect to find significant regional art.

Step inside the firehouse and the space tells a different story. Works connected to the artists who helped establish Taos as one of the most important art colonies in the American Southwest adorn the walls. Pieces by early Taos painters — including those who arrived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and helped define the visual language of the region — form an extraordinary and largely unseen collection.

But why the firehouse? The story behind the art is as unusual as the location. In the 1930s, fires threatened buildings around Taos Plaza, underscoring the need for an organized fire department. When the community rallied to support the effort, artists contributed paintings as part of fundraising drives.

The works never sold. Instead, the department kept them, gradually building a remarkable collection displayed inside a building dedicated to protecting the town and its residents. Over time, the firehouse became an unlikely steward of Taos art history — and likely one of the safest places for it to appear; after all, it is rare that a firehouse burns.

From one unexpected sanctuary to another, the art trail continues uphill at The Blake at Taos Ski Valley. At the hotel named after Ernie Blake, the visionary founder of Taos Ski Valley, the art collection begins the moment guests walk through the doors and continues into places few visitors expect.

Historic photographs of the pioneering Blake family and early layouts of the ski valley greet guests in the lobby. Paintings by Oscar E. Berninghaus, Walter Ufer, Ernest Martin Hennings and Georgia O’Keeffe capture the breadth of Taos’ artistic heritage. Navajo textiles, woodblock prints by Gustave Baumann and historic photographs of Taos Pueblo appear in corridors, seating areas, the spa and yes, even the restrooms, turning the entire hotel into an immersive and unexpected gallery.

The Blake offers guided art tours by appointment at no charge, inviting visitors to explore these treasures and learn their history. From classic portraits to early skiing aerials, each space tells a story of Taos past and present, proving that in this town, the unexpected appears everywhere.

In Taos, art does not stay confined to museums and galleries. Look at the signposts or the stoplight utility boxes and you will see it everywhere —part of everyday life and quietly reminding us that creativity thrives in the most
unexpected places.

5 truly Taos books

By Ellen Miller-Goins

To understand Taos and Northern New Mexico, it helps to read it. At SOMOS, Taos’ literary hub, Executive Director Jan Smith and Bookshop Curator Danielle Freeman have assembled a reading list that offers a layered portrait of the region.

“Some are novels, some nonfiction, and some stories are accompanied buy photos,” Smith and Freeman said. “They each document life in Northern New Mexico in an earlier time — some more contemporary than others.”

Their selections explore “the cultural values and traditions of Northern New Mexico from different angles: fiction, historical, environmental, Pueblo life, Hispanic traditions, mystery, biography, agricultural and livestock issues.”

1. The Milagro Beanfield War

John Nichols

The first novel in Nichols’ New Mexico Trilogy tells the story of a small community’s fight to protect its water rights. When a local farmer diverts irrigaton to his beanfield, it sparks a broader resistance against development and outside control. Blending humor, activism and deep affection for rural life, the novel captures the enduring tension between tradition and change.

2. The Man Who Killed the Deer

Frank Waters

This classic novel follows a young Pueblo man whose actions set off consequences that are both legal and spiritual. Waters explores the conflict between Indigenous traditions and imposed Western systems, examining identity, responsibility and cultural balance. The story offers a thoughtful and enduring perspective on Pueblo life and values.

3. The Great Taos Bank Robbery

Tony Hillerman

In this collection of essays, Hillerman combines journalism, humor and keen observation to explore Northern New Mexico. From Crime stories to cultural insights, he captures the region’s distinctive personalities and contradictions. The results is an engaging portrait of place that is both entertaining and revealing.

4. Winter in Taos

Mabel Dodge Luhan

Luhan’s memoir reflects on Taos during the early 20th century, when artists and writers were drawn to the area. She documents a period of cultural exchange, creativity and misunderstanding, offering a firsthand account of a pivotal moment in Taos history. The book remains both a historic record and a complex personal narrative.

5. Coyota in the Kitchen: A Memoir of New and Old Mexico

Anita Rodríguez

Blending memoir, recipes and artwork, Rodríguez tells the story of family, culture and identity through food. Her writing reflects the rhythms of Northern New Mexico life, where traditions are preserved in kitchens shared across generations. The book celebrates memory, resilience and the everyday practices that sustain culture.

Turn it up this summer

Can’t-miss music experiences around Northern New Mexico

By Ellen Miller-GOins

From historic plazas to high-desert stages and mountain-town festivals, summer in Taos comes with a soundtrack. The 2026 season layers free concerts, destination festivals and world-class performances across Northern New Mexico — all within a day’s drive.

Summer in Taos doesn’t unfold on a single stage. It spreads outward — from the Taos County Plaza to the mesa, into the mountains and beyond — creating a season where live music becomes part of the landscape itself.

In 2026, that landscape is especially rich. A single weekend might take you from a free concert at sunset to a ticketed headliner under the stars, or from a cultural celebration on the Taos County Plaza to a multi-day festival in the high country.

Taos Plaza Live

Music at the heart of town

Nothing captures the spirit of a Taos summer evening like live music on the Taos County Plaza. Taos Plaza Live returns Thursdays from late July through August, filling the historic gazebo with rotating regional acts. The series is rooted in community — built through local band participation and shaped by the crowd that gathers each week. Families spread out blankets, visitors wander in from nearby galleries and restaurants, and the music carries through the adobe-lined streets as the sun drops behind the mountains.

taoschamber.com

Red Willow Park

Big sounds, open skies

Outdoor concerts continue to expand in Taos, and Red Willow Park is leading the charge. On Aug. 22, Thee Sacred Souls take the stage alongside The La Lom and The Womack Sisters, part of the Lensic 360 concert series. The setting strikes a balance between festival and hometown show — a broad lawn, open sky and a crowd that blends locals with visitors chasing a summer tour stop. More announcements are expected as the season unfolds.

lensic360.org

The Mothership

Music on the mesa

Out on the mesa, Taos Mesa Brewing’s “Music on the Mothership” series delivers a steady lineup of concerts all summer. Artists scheduled for 2026 include Los Lonely Boys, Shinyribs and Desert Dwellers. It’s as much about place as performance — wide- open views, sunset light and a pur- pose-built outdoor stage that turns every show into an experience. Start times vary, so checking ahead is part of the ritual.

taosmesabrewing.com

She Rises

A festival with purpose

The She Rises International Wom- en’s Music Festival returns July 16–18 at Daleee KTAOS, centering women in music through performances, workshops and community program- ming. More than a concert series, the festival creates space for connection and collaboration — a distinctly Taos approach to music that emphasizes both artistry and shared experience.

sherisesfest.com

Las Fiestas de Taos

Tradition in rhythm

Las Fiestas de Taos (July 17–19) (pictured left) blends music with centuries-old cultural traditions on the historic Taos County Plaza. Mariachi, Spanish folk and community performances fill the weekend, accompanied by food, processions and gatherings that reflect the region’s deep roots. The full schedule typically comes later, but the atmosphere — vibrant, layered and distinctly Northern New Mexico — remains constant.

fiestadetaos.com

Red River Jamboree

A mountain music weekend

Just along the Enchanted Circle, Red River Jamboree (July 17–19) turns Brandenburg Park into a hub for country and Americana. The format is simple: bring your own seating, settle in for multiple days of music and let the mountain setting do the rest. A Sunday gospel session traditionally closes the weekend, giving the festival a communal, small-town feel.

redriverjamboree.com

Angel Fire

From blues to chamber music

Angel Fire’s summer calendar spans genres. BluewsFest (July 10–11) brings blues and craft beer together for a high-energy weekend, while the Summer Music Series adds weekly concerts beginning in June. Then, in August, Music from Angel Fire (Aug. 13–26) shifts the focus to chamber music, presenting performances by internationally recognized musicians in venues across the region.

visitangelfirenm.com

musicfromangelfire.org

8750’ Festival

Where music meets the grill

Aug. 12–16, Red River’s 8750’ BBQ & Music Festival combines live music with competitive cooking. Concerts unfold alongside BBQ, red chile and green chile cook-offs, creating a weekend that draws both music fans and food lovers. It’s a full-scale mountain-town event designed for lingering — not just a single night out.

8750festival.com

Big Barn Dance

Tradition under the stars

Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance returns Sept. 10–12, bringing its signature mix of Americana, country, folk and bluegrass to Taos for three days of music and community. Now in its 24th year, the festival has evolved from informal local gatherings into a well-known regional event, while maintaining its emphasis on songwriting and connection. Held at Red Willow Park, the format blends a “listening room” atmosphere with an outdoor festival setting, giving audiences a closer experience with performers and their work. The weekend traditionally builds toward a final night of dancing, reflecting the event’s roots as a community gathering centered on music and shared experience.

bigbarndance.com

Sunshine Festival

A labor day escape

Set in Sunshine Valley near Questa, the new Sunshine Festival (Sept. 4–5) offers a more immersive take on the music weekend. With camping, workshops and evolving programming, the festival blends music with art and community, inviting visitors to stay, explore and participate. It’s a fitting way to stretch the final days of summer.

sunshinefestivalnm.com

Blossoms & Bones

Music in O’Keeffe country

At Ghost Ranch in Abiquiú, Blossoms & Bones (Sept. 10–12) closes the season with a destination festival set among some of Northern New Mexico’s most iconic landscapes. The 2026 lineup features nationally recognized artists, while the experience extends beyond the stage — hiking, camping and exploring the terrain that inspired Georgia O’Keeffe.

ghostranchmusicfest.com

Bonus

A classical throughline

Beyond festivals, Taos’ summer music scene includes a strong classical presence. The Taos Opera Institute (May– June), Taos School of Music (June– August) and Taos Chamber Music Group all present concerts featuring emerging and established artists.

Walk through Taos

Shopping the heart of the Historic District

By Ellen Miller-Goins

In Taos, shopping isn’t something you rush through — it’s something you settle into. It unfolds slowly, one doorway at a time, blending art, culture and community into an experience that feels as layered as the landscape itself.

Just north of Red Willow Park, magpie shelves are filled with work by dozens of local artists — pottery, jewelry, folk art and functional pieces.

Nearby, Moxie Fair Trade & Handmade brings a global perspective, with colorful textiles, clothing and gifts. Then step into Aurora Folk Arts, where antiques, rare books, vintage finds and globally sourced goods fill every corner.

From here, head south toward the heart of town. As you approach the historic district, turn toward Bent Street, where the pace slows. At the corner, Pat Woodall Fine Art anchors the transition — a long-standing gallery showcasing contemporary realism and Southwest landscapes.

Then the path opens into Bent Street. Pop into Taos Cookery, a beloved kitchen shop housed in an old adobe, where locally made goods, cookware and whimsical finds sit alongside grab-and-go bites — perfect for a mid-shop snack.

Art lovers can linger at Robert L. Parsons Fine Art, where early Taos masters and historic works create a gallery experience that feels closer to a museum than a storefront. Made Solid offers handcrafted leather goods — each piece stitched and finished by hand — blending function, craftsmanship and timeless design. And at Jones Walker of Taos, the atmosphere is as memorable as the art itself. Explore clothing boutiques like Artemisia and Boxie Tees or floral design at Ultraviolet Floristry, each storefront adding its own personality to the walk.

John Dunn Shops

A courtyard experience

Tucked between Bent Street and the plaza, the John Dunn Shops offer a different kind of shopping — a shaded, pedestrian courtyard where the experience is as important as the stores themselves. Here, you’ll find everything from handcrafted jewelry and textiles to books, clothing and gifts. Inside the courtyard, shops like op.cit. Books offer a cozy, curated literary escape, while Seconds Eco Store highlights recycled and sustainably made goods with a creative twist.

At Las Comadres Gallery, a cooperative of local women artists, you’ll find everything from paintings to pottery — each piece carrying a distinctly Northern New Mexican voice. Shops like Mooncat Fiber, Bead Creations and Coyote Moon celebrate craftsmanship — whether through yarn, gemstones or vibrant folk art. Clarke & Co. Menswear stands out for its refined, contemporary men’s clothing, while Moda extends that same sensibility to women’s fashion.

Need a break? Grab a coffee or smoothie, sit by the fountain and watch the steady flow of people.

Taos Plaza

The heartbeat

Emerging from the courtyard, you arrive at Taos Plaza, the historic center where everything converges. Start at Chokolá Bean to Bar, tucked just off the plaza, where single-source chocolate, pastries and a decadent mousse bar offer the perfect reset.

From there, browse the plaza’s mix of longtime favorites and newer additions. Indigo Market offers a fresh, modern take on lifestyle retail, blending clothing, home goods and gifts with a distinctly curated feel. Nearby, shops like Made in New Mexico and Six Hand Hat Company celebrate regional craftsmanship, from locally made foods to custom, hand-shaped hats. Wander into shops like Touchstone Gallery and Two Graces, where minerals, books and art create unexpected moments of discovery.

The plaza is meant to be experienced more than once — each lap offering something new.

From the plaza, cross the street and step into Atcitty’s, where jewelry, art and gifts reflect the cultures and traditions of the Southwest. Then continue onto Kit Carson Road, where the atmosphere shifts — still central, but a little quieter, a little more contemplative.

Step inside Cabot Plaza to browse. Be sure to visit the famed Ed Sandoval Gallery, then head back down Kit Carson Road where a highlight is El Rincon Trading Post, one of Taos’ oldest shops. For generations, it has offered Native American jewelry, vintage pieces and handcrafted works. Wilder Nightingale brings a contemporary edge, with carefully selected clothing, accessories and design-forward pieces that feel both current and rooted in place. Parsons Gallery of the West offers a look at historic and contemporary Western art, while Alhambra – Soul Inspired Living invites visitors into a thoughtfully curated space of furniture, textiles and globally inspired pieces.

The walk naturally loops back toward Paseo del Pueblo, connecting the district into one experience. In the end, shopping in Taos isn’t about checking items off a list. It’s about wandering and stepping into spaces where artists, makers and shop owners are often the same people. About discovering some- thing unexpected.

Because here, every purchase carries a story. And every story is part of Taos.

Ranchos de Taos

Where history lives, breathes — and welcomes you in

By Ellen Miller-goins

There are place in Northern New Mexico where history is preserved. And then there is Ranchos de Taos — where history is still alive.

Begin, as generations have, at the heart of it all: the San Francisco de Asís Mission Church. Rising from the earth in soft, sculpted curves of adobe, the church feels less constructed than grown — an organic form shaped by human hands and time itself. Built between 1772 and 1816, it remains one of the finest examples of Spanish Colonial architecture in the United States.

Stand quietly behind the church in the late afternoon light and you begin to understand why artists like Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams returned to it again and again. The famous rear view, with its rounded, beehive buttresses, captures something elemental: light, shadow, earth and spirit in perfect balance.

The church is not a relic. It is still the center of daily life here. Parishioners gather for Mass, volunteers re-mud the adobe each summer, and visitors are welcomed into a space that has never stopped being what it was built to be.

Just steps from the church, the story of Ranchos unfolds. Step inside Chimayo Trading del Norte, a place often described as a museum where everything is for sale.

Housed in nearly 300-year-old adobe buildings on the north side of the plaza, Chimayo Trading is more than a gallery. It is a living continuation of Northern New Mexico’s artistic traditions, representing Native, Hispanic and Anglo art forms, from historic masters of the Taos Society of Artists to today’s leading contemporary voices.

Owner Gabriel Abrums describes Ranchos as something increasingly rare: “the last real holdout of old New Mexico …. a real plaza where people live, work and go to church.”

That authenticity is palpable the moment you walk through the doors. Hand-hewn vigas stretch overhead. Floorboards, patched with tin, creak softly underfoot. Light filters across pottery, weavings, jewelry and paintings — some contemporary, others centuries old.

For Abrums, the setting is inseparable from the art itself. “The character of the buildings …lends itself to displaying the art the way it’s supposed to be seen,” he says. Here, the connection between past and present is not curated — it’s continuous.

Across from the church, the scent of red chile draws you into another Ranchos institution: Ranchos Plaza Grill. For decades, the Medina family has served what many locals consider the gold standard of Northern New Mexican cuisine: simple, honest food rooted in generations of tradition. Dishes are prepared the way they always have been, allowing the ingredients — especially the chile — to speak for themselves.

“It offers the best traditional New Mexican food in Northern New Mexico,” Abrums says. “And I tell that to everybody that walks in the door.” The setting is as memorable as the food. Thick adobe walls, low doorways, and rooms filled with folk art create a sense of warmth and continuity.

From there, Ranchos invites you to wander.

Across the road, RB Ravens Gallery offers a deep dive into Native American and Southwest art. Nearby, Ranchos Antique Furnishings feels like stepping into another era entirely. Just down the highway, Vargas Tile Company show- cases vibrant handcrafted tile, while a few miles farther, Taos Drums carries forward a centuries-old tradition of drum making.

Make a day of it.

Start your morning at Ranchos Plaza Grill, where traditional Northern New Mexican breakfast — think huevos rancheros or a smothered breakfast burrito — sets the tone for a day rooted in flavor and family tradition. For lunch, stop at Trading Post Market for a relaxed meal before continuing your exploration of the plaza.

At day’s end, head to Old Martinez Hall. A beloved community gathering place for generations, this historic adobe landmark is reopening for summer 2026 as a lively community gathering space. Now operated by Heritage Hotels & Resorts and led by executive chef Cristina Martinez, the hall will feature a casual New Mexican menu, a full bar and regular live music, including Sunday afternoon performances (2–5 p.m.). Designed to be family-friendly, the venue will also host weddings, private events and celebrations, continuing its long tradition as a place where generations of Taoseños have gathered for music, food and community.

Bed down at Desert Flower Boutique Hotel, LUXX Lodge Glamping & RV Park (both featured elsewhere in this publication), Adobe & Pines Inn/ Hotel Bed and Breakfast or the new vacation rental at Chimayo Trading del Norte.
Ranchos de Taos is not polished. It is not manufactured. It is art that blooms from tradition, food that comes from family, and a church that still anchors it all.

Sleep Outside the Lines

Northern New Mexico’s most unique Airbnb, VRBO and other rentals

By Ellen Miller-Goins

In Northern New Mexico, where landscape and creativity go hand in hand, where you stay can be just as memorable as what you do. Across Taos County and the surrounding region, a growing collection of short-term rentals offers something beyond the expected. From handcrafted treehouses and off-grid Earthships to high-desert yurts and retro trailers, these stays are not just places to sleep — they’re places that tell a story.

Among the trees

Elevated escapes in Northern New Mexico

Treehouses in Northern New Mexico lean less toward childhood fantasy and more toward quiet immersion — spaces designed to slow you down and pull you into the landscape.

In Angel Fire, RidgeWalk Treehouse offers a true canopy-level experience. Perched above a forested valley, the cabin opens onto a wide deck where mornings begin with coffee and hummingbirds and evenings stretch into long sunsets. Guests often mention the thoughtful hospitality and attentive hosts, which transforms the stay from simple lodging into something more personal. Wildlife sightings are common, from deer and elk to smaller forest creatures, reinforcing the sense of being tucked into the mountains. Book directly at ridgewalktreehouse.com.

Closer to Taos, a second Treehouse on the Rio Hondo in the Valdez Valley 6 miles north of Taos offers a different kind of charm. Built by a local artist on a rural property north of town, the structure feels handcrafted and intimate, with a small deck overlooking open land dotted with wildlife. Alpacas graze nearby, and sculptural details throughout the property reflect the creative spirit of the area. Available through VRBO and Airbnb listings in Valdez/Rio Hondo Valley (search “The tree house on the Rio Hondo Valley Alpacas” to book).

Built from the earth

The enduring appeal of Taos Earthships

Few places in the world offer the concentration —and variety —of Earthships found in Taos County. These off-grid homes, pioneered by architect Michael Reynolds, are designed to work with the environment rather than against it. The two-bedroom “Virtual Hideaway” offers a classic introduction. Built with natural and recycled materials, the home uses passive solar design to regulate temperature, while thick adobe walls and three kiva fireplaces create a warm, grounding interior. Set on a secluded mesa just 15 minutes from town, it feels both remote and accessible — a balance that draws first-time Earthship visitors and returning guests alike. Book through airbnb.com (search “Taos Earthship – Virtual Hideaway”).

Beyond this, Earthships across the region range from compact studios to greenhouse-filled homes that harvest rainwater and generate their own energy. Many are available through Airbnb’s “earthship rentals” category in Taos County.

Canvas and sky

Yurts and open-air living

For travelers seeking simplicity without sacrificing comfort, yurts offer a middle ground between camping and traditional lodging. At Enchanted Forest Cross Country Ski Area, yurts serve as high-country basecamps set within alpine terrain. Book directly at enchantedforestxc.com/yurt-rentals.

Nearby, Southwest Nordic Center offers a similar backcountry-style experience near Taos Ski Valley and the New Mexico-Colorado border, with yurts positioned along its trail system. Reservations are available at southwestnordiccenter.com/reservations.

Further south near Abiquiú, a hillside yurt overlooking the Chama River offers a contrasting desert experience. Here, mornings unfold slowly on the deck, afternoons are spent exploring nearby trails and evenings bring expansive views of the night sky. Book via airbnb.com. (search “Abiquiú yurt overlooking the Chama River”).

Playful and unexpected

Trailers, containers and creative builds

Northern New Mexico has long attracted unconventional thinkers — and that spirit carries into its lodging. These smaller-scale stays often serve as basecamps, but they also embody the region’s creative ethos: reuse, reinvention and a willingness to do things differently.

On the mesa west of Taos, Hotel Luna Mystica reimagines the classic roadside stay with a collection of restored vintage trailers — each with its own personality, from mid-century Spartans to Airstreams from the 1960s. Set against wide-open desert and big skies, the experience blends nostalgia with comfort, including modern amenities like air conditioning and easy access to the adjacent Taos Mesa Brewing. Book directly at hotellunamystica.com.

Nearby, shipping container homes — sometimes called “Steel Pueblo” builds — reflect a growing interest in sustainable, modular design, often featuring modern interiors, hot tubs and unobstructed mountain vistas. Look on Airbnb and VRBO in the Taos/El Prado area (search “Shipping container in El Prado, New Mexico).

Imagination and landscape

Adifferent way to stay

In a region defined by artists, builders and independent thinkers, ti makes sense that lodging would follow suit.

Whether it’s a treehouse tucked into the forest, an Earthship embedded in the desert or a yurt perched high in the mountains, these stays offer something beyond accommodation. They offer perspective —a way ot experience Northern New Mexico not just as a destination, but as a place shaped by imagination, landscape and possibility.

 

Amazing Places to Bed Down

LUXX LODGE

Glamping meets classic road trip camping.

A new kind of campground has arrived in Ranchos de Taos. LUXX LODGE blends the nostalgia of the American road trip with modern glamping comforts, offering everything from RV hookups and tent camping sites to boutique lodge suites and futuristic tiny homes known as ‘space cabins.’ The property includes 19 full-hookup RV or van sites, multiple tent or car camping sites, lodging suites, an Airstream, plus public restrooms with indoor saunas, laundry facilities and dog-friendly outdoor spaces. The space cabins feature all-glass fronts, rooftop decks and private patios that showcase sweeping views of the Taos mountains.

Operations manager Lux Mullen describes the cabins as striking and futuristic accommodations. “They’re like Space Age modular units with an all-glass front. They’ve got rooftop decks so you can see the beautiful Taos mountains and private patios on each one,” Mullen says.

Mullen says the team continues to refine the property as renovations progress, including new glamping units, a Swim Spa hot tub and additional guest suites.

Luxx Lodge sits within walkingdistance of Ranchos Plaza Grill, the Trading Post Market, Mountain Monk Coffee and the historic San Francisco de Asís Church.

LUXX LODGE
1802 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Ranchos de Taos

575-201-3339

luxxlodge.com

Desert Flower

A boutique hotel rooted in art, food and community.

In Ranchos de Taos, Desert Flower offers a deeply personal take on the boutique hotel experience. Owners Jody and Xochitl Wodrich transformed the former Casa de Taos Motel into a seven-room retreat that celebrates art, design and the spirit of Northern New Mexico.

Each room features its own theme and carefully curated aesthetic, with artwork from regional artists and custom playlists designed to match the mood of each space. Some rooms feature large copper soaking tubs, while the courtyard invites guests to linger with wine and charcuterie.

The couple also planted fruit trees and gardens on the property and raise chickens so guests can enjoy farm- fresh breakfasts and salsas.

“It was a very natural progression for us, just based on our own wants and desires when we travel,” Jody Wodrich says. “I’ve seen so many hotels, the five-stars to the smaller hotels, and there are things that you would stop and notice. We wanted to make sure those types of things were in our hotel.”

The hotel highlights local culture with Taos-roasted coffee, locally sourced bath products and artwork throughout the property. The owners also envision pop-ups, storytelling events and live music that immerse visitors in the culture of Taos.

“We really wanted to create a place that gives people an experience,” Wodrich says.

Desert Flower Boutique Hotel

4035 NM 68, Ranchos de Taos

818-398-7799

desertflowerhotel.com

4K River Ranch

A mountain base camp along the Red River.

For travelers who crave cool mountain air and a classic Northern New Mexico summer escape, 4K River Ranch in Red River offers cabins, condos and RV sites on a 17-acre property where the Red River flows through the landscape.

The property has deep roots in the valley. The land once belonged to early Red River resident Orin Mallette, a blacksmith and miner who operated a brick kiln there in the late 1800s.

In 1936 the property became Lewis Ranch, a tourist resort with rusticcabins built from sawmill log slabs. Those early cabins helped establish Red River as a mountain getaway long before the modern ski town emerged.

The family-run property has welcomed guests since the 1970s and continues to evolve with new riverfront cabins featuring fireplaces, kitchens and year-round availability.

“We built brand new cabins on the river,” co-owner Paulette Kiker says. “They’re beautiful two-bedroom cabins right on the river with fireplaces, and we rent them year round.”

Guests can fish in the property’s stocked trout pond or in the Red Riveritself, relax beside the water or enjoy live music on summer evenings.

“We stock the pond once a week starting in May through September,” Kiker says.

Located just a mile from downtown Red River, the ranch provides easy access to hiking, fishing and scenic drives around the Enchanted Circle.

4K River Ranch

1501 W Main St, Red River

575-754-2293

4kriverranch.com