Having had the good fortune to have seen the transformation of the old Indian Hills Motel, which had fallen into a state of seedy disrepair, into the chic mid-century modern boutique hotel named for Willa Cather, whose seminal novel “Death Comes to the Archbishop” was completed in Taos, I am pleased to report visitors to Taos are in for a treat in more ways than one.
Casetta, Italian for “little house,” the hospitality management and branding group behind the transformation, was founded by boutique hotel lovers excited by the challenge of giving storied, retro properties new life. Their hotels are architecturally significant, usually historic and frequently hidden gems.
Taking into account into each lodging’s history, Casetta makes a point of honoring the past while designing for the future — collaborating with their partners and artists to design spaces that respect local vernacular and style.
Casetta aims to create serene and healthy environments, leaning into sustainable products and services whenever possible. Their Taos property is no exception.
Hotel Willa is located at the gateway to the Taos Historic District and is the perfect place to start a high desert adventure. Staying true to the ethos of the town — living art colony meets the great outdoors — Hotel Willa invites you to “laze beneath a shady willow tree with a backdrop of creamy stucco walls while watching the sun set over the ink blue mountains,” as their website reads. “Feel the warmth of the light and the winding journey to your destination: Taos. With its pastures and plains, expansive as the creative minds rooted here, visitors will find calm in the space between the mystery and magic that give Taos its enigmatic appeal.”
Inside the newly renovated facade that faces arguably the busiest intersection on Paseo, 50 mindfully appointed guest rooms await an influx of visitors. The common spaces include a stunning bar and restaurant with soaring ceilings and repurposed vigas and corbels. Local architect Doug Patterson brought his know-how and high desert sensibility to the bones of the building.
The restaurant Juliette, led by renowned husband and wife duo chef Johnny Ortiz-Concha and Maida Branch, offers a seasonal menu with local ingredients, including produce from an on-site edible garden.
A huge gallery and art space curated by The Paseo Project’s J. Matthew Thomas includes a gift shop off the lobby and will showcase an ongoing rotation of cutting-edge Taos artists as well as host related events.
A central courtyard conceals a pool house and swimming pool, steam room and sauna, with local and visitor memberships.
In the Land of Enchantment, there are endless possibilities for experiencing the area’s dramatic beauty. A hike or bike ride can become a memorable experience if you’re lucky enough to see a majestic big horn sheep or a herd of elk running across the landscape, or catch the glow of the setting sun lighting up the mountain peaks. Here are some suggestions for favorite summer outdoor adventures on the land.
Hiking
Taos is surrounded by a variety of climate zones, each offering unique views and experiences. Trails to the west of Taos near the Rio Grande cross the desert and grasslands zone and travel along the rim of the river gorge or down to the river itself.
A favorite desert hike is the Big Arsenic Trail in the Wild Rivers Recreation Area of the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument north of Taos. This trail descends about 1 mile from the rim of the gorge down to the Rio Grande and reaches Big Arsenic Spring. Just beyond the spring, look for ancient rock carvings known as petroglyphs.
East of Taos, high altitude trails pass through fields of wildflowers and follow cold mountain streams. A popular summer hike is the Bull-of-the-Woods/Wheeler Peak Trail up 1 mile to Long Canyon, then through the canyon along a stream. Bubbling springs cross the trail, creating a perfect environment for columbine and other wildflowers. Those who are acclimated to higher elevations can continue upward to the summit of Gold Hill at 12,700 feet with its dramatic views to Taos Ski Valley and beyond.
Trail running
All the trails around Taos are also great running destinations. A local group, Taos Trail Runners, organizes regularly runs.
“Whether you’re looking for a scenic jog or an all-day adventure run, Taos has trails for you,” member Brook Eberle says. “The landscape is diverse — you can run through sagebrush and piñon forests with views of the Rio Grande Gorge or climb into aspen groves in the heart of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Taos offers a variety of trails, from gradual and wide, like Trail 18, to steep single track, like Gavilan Canyon.
“What makes Taos trails special is the solitude and vastness of our public lands, including the Carson National Forest, Columbine-Hondo Wilderness and the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument,” she says.
Eberle said the Horsethief Mesa trail system north of town is a Taos Trail Runners favorite.
These trails and the new trailhead off NM 522 are examples of collaboration between the Taos community, Enchanted Circle Trails Association, the Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management.
To learn more about weekly group runs, trail maintenance events and trail information, follow @TaosTrailRunners on Instagram or visit taostrailrunners.com.
Mountain biking
Much of the public land around Taos is open to mountain biking. To find a group of like-minded riders, check out the Taos Mountain Bike Association, which has 120 members of all ages and organizes weekly trail rides. High altitude trails go through the forest, while desert trails offer wide open views. There are bike parks at Taos Ski Valley and Angel Fire, too.
Leonidas Licea whips around a berm during the advanced boys enduro race at Stage 4 of the Big Mountain Enduro Series held in Angel Fire on Sunday (June 30). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News
To get involved, check the calendar at taosmtb.org for the most up-to-date information. There is also an email list dedicated to announcing upcoming rides and events.
Another organization expanding bicycling opportunities is the Enchanted Circle Trails Association. The group coordinates planning for new trails for bicycling and other recreational users as well as trail maintenance days. Find out more at enchantedcircletrails.org.
Horseback Riding
Horseback riding offers a unique combination of outdoor adventure, nature immersion, and cultural discovery. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or trying it for the first time, exploring on horseback is an unforgettable experience. The rhythm of hooves, fresh mountain air, and the connection with your horse offer a tranquil yet thrilling way to see stunning landscapes. In Northern New Mexico you can ride along the Rio Grande, through mountain forests, or across high desert mesas. Here are a few great places to saddle up:
Taos Area — Cieneguilla Stables (near Pilar): History-rich trail rides. 575-751-2815; Rio Grande Stables (Taos area): Mesa and river rides. 888-508-7667 | riograndestables.net
Red River — Bobcat Pass Wilderness Adventures (Red River): Cowboy evenings with rides, food, and music. 575-754-2769 | bobcatpass.wordpress.com; Red River Stables (Carson National Forest): One- to eight-hour scenic rides. 575-754-1700 | redriverstables.com
Angel Fire — Roadrunner Tours (Angel Fire): Wildlife, gold panning, and lessons. (575) 377-6416 | nancyburch.com
Climbing
Mountain Skills Rock Climbing adventures has been hosting climbing tours in Taos since 1994. Guide and owner Jay Foley says, “I love climbing in Taos because there are so many different areas to choose from — the desert in the Rio Grande gorge to the alpine granite cliffs at 10,000 feet. Taos affords year-round climbing opportunities and a great diversity in climbing styles and locations.”
Some of his favorite climbing locations are Tres Piedras, Comales Canyon and the Vista Verde area. This summer, Mountain Skills will be offering two people for the price of one, or 10 percent off groups of three or more. Visit the website at climbingschoolusa.com or call 575-776-2222.
Take a tour
Taos has a rich culture and history. To really understand Taos, start with a tour of the Taos Pueblo or with Whitefeather Native Cultural Tours that takes you beyond the Pueblo village to ancestral lands.
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Heritage Inspirations offers e-biking, hiking and walking tours, along with cultural and stargazing excursions and glamping.
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A variety of tours by trolley or walking feature Taos history and even ghost stories. Visit taos.org for a list of tours.
Cindy Brown has been a freelance writer and columnist for the Taos News for the last 14 years focused on the outdoors and health and is the author of “Taos Hiking Guide.”
Water is precious in the desert. In Taos, you’ll hear the expression “agua es vida,” meaning “water is life.” From high mountain lakes to rivers to the system of acequias (irrigation ditches) water is vital to nourishing the land. Water can also carry you into ancient canyons for rafting, fishing and soaking adventures.
Rafting
Rafting on the Rio Grande offers all kinds of adventures from quiet float trips to wild whitewater runs. Being on the river with an experienced guide is a great way to learn about the geology, history and wildlife of the area.
The Racecourse section of the Rio Grande is the most popular rafting trip on the river with lots of mellow sections and a few exciting rapids. Many of the local rafting companies have kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, too.
Shay Laos, a guide with Los Rios River Runners, leads the Shea family down a rapid in the Taos Box section of the Rio Grande on Wednesday (May 8). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News
This year, New Mexico River Adventures is offering adventures like inflatable kayak floats on the Middle Box portion of the river, beginning with a scenic hike through the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. This trip takes you through a more remote part of the river, and the chances of viewing wildlife are high.
Rafting guides with New Mexico Rafting Adventures compete in the 66th annual Mother’s Day Whitewater Race held on the Rio Grande just south of Pilar on Saturday (May 11). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News
New Mexico River Adventures has a new location, and in addition to a retail store, they will have food and coffee carts on site.
Soaking
There are several natural springs near Taos.
One of the most popular now has a new access point: the Stagecoach or Manby Hot Springs is located along the Rio Grande. A 2 mile hike along the river takes you to the three warm pools, making for a great day of hiking and soaking.
Zildjian Cognito, of Ojo Caliente, bathes in the Manby Hot Springs on Friday (June 22) in the Ro Grande Gorge.
These hot springs are says to have been used by the Pueblo people before the arrival of Spanish explorers, according to Craig Martin, author of “Enchanted Waters: A Guide to New Mexico’s Hot Springs.” Martin explains when the Chili Line railroad brought visitors to Tres Piedras in the 1880s, they could take a stagecoach to Taos crossing a bridge near the hot springs. Notorious land speculator Arthur Manby claimed 66,000 acres as his own, including the hot springs. He had grand plans for a hotel and resort to be named the Lost Springs of the Aztec. Unfortunately for Manby, he died under mysterious circumstances before he could realize his dream.
Nathan Burton/Taos News Cimarron Canyon State Park offers spectacular sights and plentiful fishing opportunities, particularly during the fall when brown trout spawn.
To find the new trailhead, go to the John Dunn Bridge in Arroyo Hondo and look for the trail access. Follow the narrow path that climbs over boulders and makes its way through vegetation. Long pants are recommended, as there is poison oak along the river.
The new route replaces the old access point from Tune Drive that is now closed.
Fly fishing
Chaz Kerger of Taos Fly Shop says summer offers a wide range of options for fly fishing, including high mountain and lower valley fishing.
Nathan Burton/Taos News Cindy Brown, left, high-fives fly fishing guide Chaz Kerger after catching a brown trout Saturday morning (Sept. 24) in Cimarron Canyon State Park.
“You can spin the wheel and choose where to go on any given day,” Kerger says, pointing out that summer is the optimal time to fish mountain creeks because the rest of the year they are too cold.
One favorite is the Rio Costilla that flows in the Valle Vidal and nearby land.
“There are open, grassy meadows around the river, and there is easy access,” Kerger says.
Nathan Burton/Taos News Taos Fly Shop fishing guide Chaz Kerger, left, teaches Cindy Brown techniques on casting on Saturday (Sept. 24) along the Cimarron River.
Another recommended spot is the Cimarron River as it flows through Cimarron Canyon State Park. “The access is also super easy here, and the fishing is good throughout the park.”
Nathan Burton/Taos News Using a terrestrial dry fly on top with a mayfly nymph as the subsurface fly, Cindy Brown fly fishes in the Cimarron River Saturday (Sept. 24) near Eagle Nest.
Summer is the time for using dry flies on the surface of the water. “Both spots have good bug hatches in the summer that make the fish want to go for dry flies,” Kerger says.
Nathan Burton/Taos News Cindy Brown fly fishes along the Cimarron River with the help of Taos Fly Shop guide Chaz Kerger on Saturday (Sept. 24).
Be sure to get a New Mexico fishing license before heading out.
Water sports
Tagged “the world’s fastest-growing water sport” on multiple websites, stand-up paddling is a fun water sport you can try on the Rio Grande or Monte Verde Lake in Angel Fire. Affordable, family-friendly, relaxing and relatively easy to learn, the sport, well-known for working your core, is also great for improving balance, burning fat and losing weight.
Angel Fire Resort, New Mexico
In addition to paddleboards, Monte Verde Lake has a wide range of other options. Starting in mid-May when the boat house opens, you can rent paddleboards or a variation called a pedal board. There are also fishing boats, canoes, kayaks and pedal boats for summ
er fun. Monte Verde Lake is stocked with trout to ensure good fishing.
Aaron Cherney paddles through rapids while on a guided raft trip with Los Rios River Runners through the Taos Box section of the Rio Grande on Wednesday (May 8). DANIEL PEARSON/Taos News
Cindy Brown has been a freelance writer and columnist for the Taos News for the last 14 years focused on the outdoors and health and is the author of “Taos Hiking Guide.”
Hunting wild mushrooms is like detective work: It requires observation and experience to uncover edible, delicious finds.
As summer rains return, mushroom season peaks in the Sangre de Cristos and surrounding mountains near Taos. Local forager Chad Belvill says snowmelt triggers mushrooms underground, which then surface after cycles of moisture.
“If the monsoon rains don’t come, they may start but dry out before appearing,” he says.
Last July, Belvill and his 8-year-old son, Keenan, guided me through aspen and spruce forests at over 10,000 feet near Hopewell Lake. We searched for porcinis, chanterelles and oysters, ultimately identifying seven edible species. We also encountered toxic varieties like the striking red amanita muscaria and the panther mushroom, which Belvill contrasted with edible boletes by pointing out the gills.
Belvill emphasized the connection between mushrooms and conifer trees. “Fungi attach to tree roots, gathering nutrients in exchange for carbohydrates,” he explained. We focused our search under spruce trees and near moist areas like drainages, where mushrooms thrive.
Keenan, an experienced young forager, helped spot mushrooms along the 1.5-mile loop. With each find, we checked for freshness and insect damage before collecting only the best specimens.
“Mushrooming helps mushrooms reproduce,” Belvill said. “Pick what you can use. There’s an abundance in these forests.”
Belvill’s passion began in childhood, learning from his father in the Midwest, and grew during his time on a fire crew in Oregon. He’s now spent 17 years foraging around Taos and even grows mushrooms himself.
Tips for beginners
• Go with an expert or group. Lance Hale of the New Mexico Mycological Society recommends beginners learn with experienced foragers. “There are thousands of types — only a small number are deadly, but many can make you sick.”
• Seek mushrooms above 10,000 feet, in damp areas or under spruce trees.
• Use guides like “All That the Rain Promises and More” by David Arora.
• If unsure, don’t eat it.
• To cook wild mushrooms, first clean them with a brush or cold water, pat dry, sauté in a hot pan, adding butter, salt or spices.
To schedule a guided foray, contact Chad Belvill at cbelvill13@gmail.com.
Explore Northern New Mexico with Wild Earth Llama Adventures
By Olivia Lewis
In the alpine forests and volcanic canyons of northern New Mexico, Wild Earth Llama Adventures offers an unforgettable way to explore the backcountry — by trekking with llamas. Founded in 1995 by Stuart Wilde, the outfitter combines the joy of hiking with the charm of these sure-footed animals, all while providing a deep dive into the region’s natural and cultural richness.
Based near Taos, Wild Earth Llama Adventures specializes in guided wilderness treks through some of the Southwest’s most spectacular and seldom-visited landscapes. Guests can choose from single-day “Take a Llama to Lunch” hikes to multi-day backcountry adventures. Treks are custom designed for all ages and fitness levels and offer access to trails in the Carson National Forest and the Rio Grande Gorge.
“The llamas carry your gear, so you can relax and fully experience the scenery,” Wilde explains. “It’s about slowing down, breathing deep and letting nature take over.”
Popular trekking destinations include the nearby Columbine/Hondo Wilderness and Wheeler Peak Wilderness — home to New Mexico’s highest summit at 13,161 feet. For those seeking solitude, the Latir Peak Wilderness and Valle Vidal offer unspoiled beauty and abundant wildlife, including bighorn sheep and elk.
Each trek is led by experienced naturalist guides who share knowledge of the area’s ecology, edible and medicinal plants, and Indigenous history. Whether you’re wandering the high country or descending into the volcanic chasm of the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, you’ll be immersed in a living classroom.
You’ll also quickly learn each llama has their own personality.
There’s Chaco, the affectionate one who seeks out kisses; Loki, the troublemaker who can untie his own rope; Denali, the eager-to-lead rookie; and the gentle veteran Rio, who loves munching pine needles as much as leaving his “mark” beside the trail.
On day hikes, guests are treated to gourmet wilderness lunches.
“The llamas pack in everything from fresh fruits and hearty sandwiches on homemade bread to natural sodas and decadent desserts,” Wilde says. “It’s not just a picnic — it’s a feast with a view.”
Beyond the adventures, the company is also committed to rescue. Many of the llamas on the trail were saved from neglect or misguided ownership.
“People think llamas will guard sheep like dogs,” Wilde says, recounting how one llama, Chaco, was nearly euthanized after failing in that role. Now, Chaco’s a trail favorite, known for his affection and quirky personality.
Wilde, a longtime Taos local, started llama trekking to explore the mountains with his toddler in tow. A book on llamas arriving in his mailbox sparked an idea that became a life’s calling.
“Working with animals, being in nature — this is my cathedral, my fitness center and my sanctuary,” he says.
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a curious first-timer, Wild Earth Llama Adventures offers a wilderness experience unlike any other — one where you’ll learn, laugh and be led by a woolly companion through some of the Southwest’s most breathtaking terrain.
For details or reservations, visit llamaadventures.com or call 888-895-5262.
As you plan your high-altitude adventures in Northern New Mexico this summer, be sure to consider some of the perfect pairings of outdoor fun followed by sublime food and drink.
By Cindy Brown
Enjoying the deck at The Bavarian (Photo by Liam Doran)
Local families and visitors with kids will also likely Google: “Find kids’ interests in Taos.” Surprising activities in all seasons are hiding in plain sight, waiting to be discovered.
Meet the mountain with an epic rock climbing adventure
By Jay Foley
As you take in the mountains and serene mesa vistas of Taos County, look closely and you will notice several cliffs dotting this majesticNorthern New Mexico landscape.
Camping, glamping or whatever, these basic rules will not fail
By Craig Smith
Northern New Mexico is a camper’s paradise. Whether you use an RV, car or tent, camping is a great way to discover Taos and its beautiful surroundings. But — plan ahead.
Whether you’ve lived in Taos your whole life or you have just arrived, the vast landscape of Taos County will always have something to satisfy your outdoor desires.
Taos Ski Valley ski instructor Bernard ‘Dadou’ Mayer remembered
By Geoffrey Plant
Legendary Taos Ski Valley ski instructor Bernard “Dadou” Mayer died in August, 2022. He was 82. Mayer followed his brother, Jean Mayer, another lareger-than-life denizen of the slopes, from the French Alps to the United States in order to take a job at the Taos Ski Valley in 1958. Jean Mayer, who with the help of his family and several other early ski valley legends, built the Hotel St. Bernard and was the technical director of the Taos Ski School, died in October 2020.
The Rio Grande is the quintessential fly-fishing experience in Northern New Mexico
By Tamra Testerman
Washing down a sandwich with a cold beer on the tailgate of his truck gazing at the Milky Way slung low above the craggy canyons carved from the volcanic rock of the Taos Pueblo — the sound of a steady river below snaking its way to the Gulf of Mexico — Taos local John Nichols, author of “The Milagro Beanfield War” and 18 other books, describes the conclusion of a perfect day fly-fishing on the Rio Grande.
Welcome to skiing in paradise. Around the Enchanted Circle of Northern New Mexico, you’ll find skiing and riding for every taste and level of ability. From double-black diamond runs at the legendary Taos Ski Valley to the family-friendly slopes of Sipapu, Angel Fire and Red River, skiing and riding here is more than just about sport — it’s about pristine forests, sunshine, history, culture, community and finding a place that reflects who you are as a skier and a person.
