Into the Woods

Mushroom hunting in Northern New Mexico

By Cindy Brown

Hunting wild mushrooms is like detective work: It requires observation and experience to uncover edible, delicious finds.

As summer rains return, mushroom season peaks in the Sangre de Cristos and surrounding mountains near Taos. Local forager Chad Belvill says snowmelt triggers mushrooms underground, which then surface after cycles of moisture.

“If the monsoon rains don’t come, they may start but dry out before appearing,” he says.

Last July, Belvill and his 8-year-old son, Keenan, guided me through aspen and spruce forests at over 10,000 feet near Hopewell Lake. We searched for porcinis, chanterelles and oysters, ultimately identifying seven edible species. We also encountered toxic varieties like the striking red amanita muscaria and the panther mushroom, which Belvill contrasted with edible boletes by pointing out the gills.

Belvill emphasized the connection between mushrooms and conifer trees. “Fungi attach to tree roots, gathering nutrients in exchange for carbohydrates,” he explained. We focused our search under spruce trees and near moist areas like drainages, where mushrooms thrive.

Keenan, an experienced young forager, helped spot mushrooms along the 1.5-mile loop. With each find, we checked for freshness and insect damage before collecting only the best specimens.

“Mushrooming helps mushrooms reproduce,” Belvill said. “Pick what you can use. There’s an abundance in these forests.”

Belvill’s passion began in childhood, learning from his father in the Midwest, and grew during his time on a fire crew in Oregon. He’s now spent 17 years foraging around Taos and even grows mushrooms himself.

Tips for beginners

• Go with an expert or group. Lance Hale of the New Mexico Mycological Society recommends beginners learn with experienced foragers. “There are thousands of types — only a small number are deadly, but many can make you sick.”

• Seek mushrooms above 10,000 feet, in damp areas or under spruce trees.

• Use guides like “All That the Rain Promises and More” by David Arora.

• If unsure, don’t eat it.

• To cook wild mushrooms, first clean them with a brush or cold water, pat dry, sauté in a hot pan, adding butter, salt or spices.

To schedule a guided foray, contact Chad Belvill at cbelvill13@gmail.com.